Irish fighting stick which sounds the way you spelt it, but is actually spelt Shillelagh.
Here is a link to one on ebay which appears to be a V6 model, specially converted for walking.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120048115221


B_I wish you success with your AAV,

Mad Mick.

I apologise unreservedly ! serves me right for trusting a spell checker

J

Had I noticed your post earlier I could have directed you to a thread discussing the same issue on the Aussie MB Club forum. I'm surprised that the mechanics you tried were not familiar with the problem. Anyone who has spent any time working on the D-Jet M116 (the 3.5 seems to suffer more from this problem than the 4.5 M117 with D-Jet) will be familiar with it and the "fixes" for it. Whilst faults such as vacuum leaks, faulty AAV and incorrect tuning can cause the problem, it is also something of a design problem.

Rather than post it all again here, see the discussion (in this instance relating to a 350SE W116) and my posts (posts by "Greg") in the thread at http://www.mbcnsw.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,1117.0.html

Greg

__________________
107.023: 350SLC, 3-speed auto, icon gold, parchment MBtex (sold 2012 after 29 years ownership).
107.026: 500SLC, 4-speed auto, thistle green, green velour.
124.090: 300TE, 4-speed auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex.
201.028: 190E 2.3 Sportline, 5-speed manual, arctic white, blue leather.
201.028: 190E 2.3, 4-speed auto, blue-black, grey MBtex.
201.034: 190E 2.3-16, 5-speed manual, blue-black, black leather.

I had a theory to improve what seems to be a common AAV issue, replace it with an electric valve driven off the cold start fuel injector. The exposed water channel would have to be capped off and maybe a relay would be required to avoid loading the injector power too much but this should provide the correct air volume at the required time. Does this sound like it would work?

hi guys and thanks greg for the link will have to log on ..re the AAV my solution was with the bulb and re-shape'ng it..this was done by a mate who had the right equipment so all good for now..just gota get my starting issue fixed and she will be on the road

cheers

GaryF,

Unfortunately this would not work very well. The cold start injector only operates for a brief period of time (in the order of seconds determined by engine temperature) during starting. The AAV on the other hand remains open for a longer period (minutes) and closes gradually as the engine approaches operating temperature.

To eliminate the hunting, I had considered the possibility of fitting a temperature switch that would remove the idle (closed throttle) contacts from circuit until such time as the engine nears operating temperature. Another approach (assuming the necessary circuit changes are possible) would be to greatly reduce or eliminate the hysteresis built into the over-run fuel cut-off feature in the D-Jet ECU. This would move the cut-in engine speed closer to the cut-off speed. This should result in the relatively slow cycling hunting becoming more like a rapid and slight misfire should the cold idle speed reach around 1500 RPM. On the over-run whilst driving, hunting around the cut-off should not occur with reduced or eliminated hysteresis. Just some ideas I have never taken any further.

Greg

__________________
107.023: 350SLC, 3-speed auto, icon gold, parchment MBtex (sold 2012 after 29 years ownership).
107.026: 500SLC, 4-speed auto, thistle green, green velour.
124.090: 300TE, 4-speed auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex.
201.028: 190E 2.3 Sportline, 5-speed manual, arctic white, blue leather.
201.028: 190E 2.3, 4-speed auto, blue-black, grey MBtex.
201.034: 190E 2.3-16, 5-speed manual, blue-black, black leather.

A friend of mine had a stroke of genius. Install a small ball valve in the air line to the supplemental air valve (aka AAV), thus creating an infinitely variable orifice adjustment. Then, start the car cold with the valve open all the way and close it down until the idle hunting stops...is there any reason this wouldn't work?

I know it's just a work around for what could be a stuck supplemental air valve but it seems to be a, cheap, easy and elegant fix to a stubborn problem. It would also be really easy to adjust again in the future if the condition of the supplemental air valve changed.

__________________
Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Be sure to check that your throttle body main air buttlerfly valve is closed. Most idiates that work on these think they should set the idle by opening that like with a carborator. It should be just gently closed. All of the idle air comes in though this thermo valve and the big screw. Once your thermovalve closes ALL the idle air comes through the big screw!! SO, the big air screw should easilly shut the idle nearly off. Are you sure you can't get a new bulb? I bought a couple maybe 6 years ago. You can't keep an old 230,250,280 starting right without them!!

I've read this whole thread and I think whats missing that the idle air ONLY comes through rubber tubes, two of them. You have to be able to block the air flow way down with the screw. Then the only air coming in should be through the thermovalve. close that off and no air should be coming in.

All this air flow is very audible. As the thermo valve closes you can hear it sut the air off. You can hear the air coming into the valve too. You can hear the air coming through the idle air adjuster (big screw) too. It gets loudr as you close it off.

Very sophisticated fuel injection. You are lucky you don't need to adjust the pump. Oh, if you keep giving it air at idle with the screw and the rpms never drop off, the pump is sending in too much fuel at idle.

The orange stuff around the bulb in you pic is just corrosion. Pick it off. I would take the whole thing apart and clean it nicely. Make sure the boar is smooth and the piston can move nicely too. Keep at it, it takes a while to understand. Good luck