I am working on my 114 front brakes, just a simple shoe replacement.

I changed 3 pads, no problem.

Now I am on the last pad and I cant get the caliper to retract. On the other pads I just used slight forec with a piece of wood. It was easy and not a problem.

Now, on this last one driver side outer, no dice. I am afraid to use too much force.

I made shure that the piston is not binding at an angle, and I let the blead screw out a little in the event that the line was overly presureized.

Any Ideas? I am not about to go prying like crazy on it.

How much is too much?

Thanks

Sounds like your piston has developed rust.

You can try to remove the caliper and clamp it in a vise, or use a strong clamp to close it. Be aware that doing either of these can result in the piston sticking again as soon as pressure is applied to the brakes - locking the wheel. It worked fine on my calipers, but just be aware. The only other alternative is a new or rebuilt caliper.

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

i use a medium flat screwdriver to get it out a bit, then i take an 18 or 20" screwdriver and pry it back. dont worry about hurting anything. these parts are very very tough. pry as hard as you want. i am pretty stout and have never cracked any component by doing this.

once it is pushed back, put in the new pad, making sure it is not binding. grind the edges of the pads if nec for clearance.

as tomguy said it might stick again, but in my exerience, they usually dont.

good luck

tom w

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I always use a C-clamp cantered on the old brake pad to push them back.

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1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

I am going to remove the caliper and try to clean it up next week when I get some time.

It is tempting to buy a rebuilt one for $70 though.

For now I put the old shoe back on and plan on taking it easy until i get the parts.

Thanks again

How much meat is left on the old shoe? I've seen this where cal pistons fully extended get stuck and then can be eased back by SLEDGE HAMMERING gradually thicker old worn out shoes into place.

And I think you'd have better luck wrastling with it on the car instead of pulling it and taking it to the bench. Or use BRUTE FORCE leveraging off the edge of the disc if necessary.

Am reminded of problem separating disc from hub. Finally I took the parts to my pal the mechanic who beat the hell out of it with a sledge hammer. "Now why didnt I think of that," says me.

Replace calipers in pairs. You can get away with replacing just one for a little while but it will come back to haunt you. The newer caliper requires more pressure to activate (tighter fit and more surface contact between the "O" ring and piston surface). The increased pressure is applied to both sides and will cause premature failure of the older, worn caliper. Catastrophic brake failure never occurs at a convenient time.

If you have rust issues then the pistons are probably pitted. If you rebuild the calipers inspect the pistons CAREFULLY for any pitting. Surface rust can be cleaned and slight pitting around the outer seal shoulder is acceptable but ANY pitting on the sealing surface is grounds for piston replacement.

Never take shortcuts with your brakes. Without proper brakes you are driving a two ton bowling ball.

On my cars if I run into a sticky or stuck piston I don't waste my time with it. On most models the rebuilt calipers are cheap. I've rebuilt calipers but only BEFORE problems arise with them.

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Over 21 years I owned several:
w108
w110
w111
w115
w116
w123
w124
w126
w212

I'm new on this forum, but read this thread because a front brake caliper on my '75 240D is sticking.

Can someone tell me where to look for rebuilt calipers for it?

Vehicle: 1975 Mercedes Benz 240 Diesel
Part: Brake Caliper
------------------------------------
Brake Caliper
Rear - Left
Ate
--------------------------------
Brake Caliper
Rear - Right
Ate
----------------------------------
Brake Caliper
Front - Left
-----------------------------------------
Brake Caliper
Front - Right
---------------------------------
Brake Caliper
Rear - Right
Bendix
-------------------------------------
Brake Caliper
Rear - Left
Bendix

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1XX04Y8981Y516088I&year=1975&make=MB&model=240-D-001&category=N&part=Brake+Caliper