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#16
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There's a brand new blue mbtex rear seat cover on ebay ending today. -CTH
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#17
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Haha, saw that, but I'm set on going with black leather. World Uph would be around $2k for seat covers alone, another few hundred for carpet, a couple more for the headliner...and that still doesn't address door panels, dash, and misc trim (kick panels, a pillars, etc). I'm taking it over to a local upholsterer on Monday to see what he can do for me - ideally, I'd like matching leather on seats and door panels.
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1973 280 - Current Project Car 1979 240d - 100% Stock 1982 380sl - 100% Stock 1985 190e 2.3 - Heavily Modified |
#18
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I talked to the guy at world upholstery on the phone and was told if I came down with cash he could do better on the cost of the covers. I havn't been able to get over there yet. I was quoted $2000.00 for carpet, headliner, and leather seats from a shop in temple city that was recomended to me. PM me if you want the name and address. I was also told that most cover places would negotiate on stock W114 stuff because most of us owners are cheap and the cars aren't worth that much. GAHH in the valley gives 40% off of book to legitimate shops if you know of anyone.
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#19
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Are you actually going to put a K-jet motor to replace your D-jet M110? That would be silly if you are...
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Signiture2.jpg |
#20
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Me? No, I'll be replacing my carbureted m110 (which is actually running fairly well at the moment) with a d-jet injected m110. Ideally with more aggressive cams and equal-length headers/free-flow exhaust. It doesn't seem silly to me...
__________________
1973 280 - Current Project Car 1979 240d - 100% Stock 1982 380sl - 100% Stock 1985 190e 2.3 - Heavily Modified |
#21
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no i was under the impression you were replacing a D-jet motor with a less powerful k-jet motor...
I will be doing a D-Jet conversion on my W123 sometime soon
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Signiture2.jpg |
#22
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is your coupe lowered?
looks nice. tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#23
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I was going to ask the same thing. Did you cut coils, or heat the springs?
I was figuring I'd have to have a set of progressive springs made...what's the ride quality like on your car?
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1973 280 - Current Project Car 1979 240d - 100% Stock 1982 380sl - 100% Stock 1985 190e 2.3 - Heavily Modified |
#24
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Ah yes the springs on the front were cut, and the back was lowered via the SLS. The ride quality is still quite good, a little harder ride as expected over speed humps and the like but its still good.
i don't really like that side on pic in my sig that much, its a bit too dark. Heres a better pic of how the car sits
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Signiture2.jpg |
#25
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did you cut the front coils yourself?
if so could you describe the process, please? tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#26
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Looks great. I was hoping for a small drop on the monster-truck-like suspension of the 280, but what I don't want to do is compromise ride quality.
I actually have cut springs from a 500e on my w201, and it's uncomfortably rigid for street driving. I'm going to try to pull a set of springs from a jy 114 and see how they do with a coil cut. I'm really looking to keep the existing look and feel of the car, just not ride *quite* so high. Tom - the process is relatively simple - just use some cutting implement to cut a little at a time from the bottom of the spring (i.e. not the flat side). I use an angle grinder with a beeswax-slathered cutoff wheel, a little at a time so as not to heat the spring excessively - but I'm sure you could also use a sawzall. The key is not to generate too much heat. Of course, any time this question comes up, experts come crawling out of the woodwork to tell you why not to cut suspension springs. Also keep in mind that in some areas of the world, modifying your suspension components is illegal...
__________________
1973 280 - Current Project Car 1979 240d - 100% Stock 1982 380sl - 100% Stock 1985 190e 2.3 - Heavily Modified |
#27
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Yeah i cut 2 coils off my 280 front springs.
The hardest part is taking the springs out, even cut they are still so long and a bit annoying to get back in. You need a special Mercedes Spring compressor for it, which i didn't have at the time. The springs on my car were cut almost a year ago, i've had no problems, same deal with my older brothers 280CE, hes had the springs cut for a number of years and nothing has gone wrong. People say be careful of the springs popping out, but theres no chance in hell they would on a W123.
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Signiture2.jpg |
#28
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Quote:
I guess it's a little different with our cars because of the way the spring sits in the groove on the control arm. Anyway, looks great. A little more drop than I'm after, but very cool.
__________________
1973 280 - Current Project Car 1979 240d - 100% Stock 1982 380sl - 100% Stock 1985 190e 2.3 - Heavily Modified |
#29
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thanks
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Signiture2.jpg |
#30
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after the cut did you heat the spring to make the end slope like it did originally? and how much does one coil drop it?
thanks for the great input! tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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