PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/)
-   Vintage Mercedes Forum (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes-forum/)
-   -   Things which aren't supposed to go "bump in the night" (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes-forum/172896-things-arent-supposed-go-bump-night.html)

Mike D 12-09-2006 05:06 PM

Things which aren't supposed to go "bump in the night"
 
4 Attachment(s)
W114-115 and W107 front suspension mount replacement.

Steps 1 and 2.

1. Order the kit from Phil at Fastlane.
2. Use penetrating oil at these spots. Both sides. They are, rear bushing, front bushing, lower shock attaching bolts and stabilizer link. Give these a shot a couple of times a day until the parts arrive.

Mike D 12-09-2006 05:12 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here are all the tools you will need. A floor jack, bottle jack will do as well, a set of safety stands, penetrating oil, 2 medium straight bladed screwdrivers, a 13 mm combo wrench, a 13mm socket, a 15mm socket, ratchet wrench, a 6" and a 3" extension.

Mike D 12-09-2006 05:38 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Support the car, both sides, here. The front suspension needs to hang free and the wheels 3 or 4 inches from the ground.

Loosen the stabilizer links to here. Use the 13mm socket and combo wrench. Pic #2

Place floor jack and put pressure on the lower control arm. Remove shock mounting bolts. 13mm socket. Lower jack and control arm will lower below shock bolts.


One side at a time, loosen, NOT remove, the subframe mounting bolts. The front bolt sits up in the frame. pic #4

Remove the spring retainers from the upper mounting nuts, one side, front and rear.

Mike D 12-09-2006 06:14 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Use the floor jack to keep tension on the lower control arm. Remove the bolts from the mount bushings on one side. The front one is easier to remove if you slide the bolt out first and then slip the washer out. Pull the retaining tab from the frame rail.

Lower the jack and the subframe will drop down. You may need to turn the steering to clear the tie-rod end. The brake line will be tight but it won't be stretched. You might need to guide it around the curve of the upper control arm.

Place one of the medium screwdriver blades into the flattened side of the bushing area. Push down on the handle and the bushing will slide up. You might need to pry on both sides of the bushing at the same time. That is why I said 2 screwdrivers.

Mike D 12-09-2006 06:25 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Clean the front and rear bushing sockets.

Place the bushings in their sockets.

Assemble the retaining bolts and washer spacer combo.

Mike D 12-09-2006 06:48 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Use the floor jack to lift the subframe almost in place. Wiggle the bushings to seat the "cup" of the bushing to the shoulder of the frame mount.

Insert the retainer into the upper slot, thin prong first, rounded nut side DOWN!

Slide bolt assembly through the bushing and start the bolt a few threads. Insert the snap retainers.

Now do the other side.

You might have to completely undo the stabilizer on the second side. If you do, make sure you have pressure on the control arm and lower it slowly.

Let's finish it now. Use the jack to put tension on the control arm. Tighten the bushing bolts. Work the shock bolts back into their holes, replace the nuts and tighten. You will need to use the jack to get the proper level for this. Tighten the stabilizer links. The tightening specification for the stabilizer is when the rubber bushing has expanded to the size of the steel washer you have achieved the proper tension. Now do the other side.

You're done! I did both sides in my driveway, laying down, taking pictures in under 3 hours. It is easier on a lift. I have done one side in under 22 minutes using air tools.

Cephallus 12-09-2006 08:15 PM

Nice write-up! Thanks for taking the time! I'll be wading into the front suspension soon enough...

Edit: parts are ordered...as well as the drivetrain suspension components, and tie rods.

Colorado220 04-01-2011 03:15 AM

Thanks for this!

JimFreeh 04-02-2011 10:10 AM

Great write up!
 
MikeD,

Thanks for the write up and pics!

Jim

Colorado220 02-20-2012 06:55 PM

Such a great write up.....Come on new job that will let me do this SOON

porschesam 09-18-2016 11:31 AM

I have a few questions on this older post,

Does the engine stay bolted to the subframe?
If so, lowering the subframe/engine combo will not damage other components?

Jub 09-18-2016 02:38 PM

I did this on my 72 (following Mike's instructions)...worked like a charm (no damage at all).

Mike D 09-18-2016 09:43 PM

No problem if you do one side at a time per instructions.

Tomas7 04-03-2018 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike D (Post 3637144)
No problem if you do one side at a time per instructions.

Thanks for this write up Mike D. I will be tackling this, this weekend. I will also do the rear mounts along with my diff middle mount.

Kvz2000 05-14-2020 04:02 PM

Hi Mike D ,
I realise it’s an old post but an absolute godsend for me as I’m about to tackle this job tomorrow and your instructions will be invaluable. I have just joined the forum tonight and already feeling more confident about the task tomorrow. What a great forum , I find it difficult getting info and chat specifically for the W114 and W115 ....I might update you when jobs done ...many thanks


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:23 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website