Hey, folks:

I fixed my heater motor (thanks to some research through the old posts here, which guided me to remove the cowl cover and lube the fan motor!), so now it blows, but doesn't blow WARM. The radiator has the proper amount of water in it...where should I investigate next?

Thanks to all who answered my tire query post...and in advance to those who help me out here.

Best regards,
Michael Carmody
Wichita, Kansas USA
Air Capital of the World

PS: Oh, yeah...sorry. I'm driving a 1968 220 (gasoline powered, four speed).

Once the engine is warm, see if the hoses going to your heater core are warm/hot. (don't burn yourself)

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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

I'm confused. Post heading says doesnt blow warm. Body of post says doesnt blow cold? The fan has nothing to do with temperature of air as you know. Doesnt this car have cable operated valve for hot water mounted on the engine side of the firewall? Are the hoses to and from the heater core the same temperature when felt? Is the cable opening the heater valve? Need more clues. Is engine temperature correct? Not running too cool? Put the year and type of car in your profile. Thanks

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81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE.

Hey, Larry:

Thanks for your quick response. I felt around earlier this evening, but it was starting to get dark, so I couldn't really see what I was doing...I believe I found one of the heater hoses, and it was warm, but I wasn't able to feel if it was because water had been running through it, or just because of the ambient temperature of the engine.

I'll try and check tomorrow while the engine's running...I should be able to feel any hot liquid running through there. I'll certainly post back whatever I find.

Thanks again!
MC

Carnut:

Oops...thanks for pointing out my error. I meant it does not blow HOT.

I have not noticed a cable-actuated valve under the hood, but I'm new to the marque, and unfamiliar with some its more arcane bits of engineering. I'll certainly check for that tomorrow when it's light out, though. Thanks for the tip.

As for the engine temp, it runs within the normal operating range (according to the temp gauge in the dash, anyway), but on the coolish side. (It's about 40 degrees F today.) The air from the blower is not warm at all, though, so I don't think it's getting exposed to the water from the engine at all.

You guys have given me a couple of interesting clues and points to ponder. I'll post more tomorrow after I've had the opportunity to go over it with more attention to detail.

Thanks so very much!!!
MC

Maybe you can take a pic of your engine compartment and post it. Perhaps we can see something you are not seeing. I'd say more towards the back of the engine, by the firewall.
Might as well post a pic of the car in general - they are nice to look at.

__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

Larry:

I will try and do just that. Someone has done a lot of meatball surgery under the hood over the years...I'll get some pix up as soon as I can so you can shudder in horror.

Just so you know, I bought the car about three days ago at a pretty good price (as it's got a number of little bugs and issues, a lot of which I've already fixed)...I have owned MANY vintage cars, but this is my first running Benz. My only German car experience in the past has been with a series of air-cooled VWs. So...all your help is much appreciated!

Here are pix of the exterior. Underhood shots coming ASAP.

Thanks again!
MC

aircap:

First...nice car.

Now, I am making the assumption the previous owner has left all the parts more or less in place and nothing has been removed.

First, look under the hood adjacent to the brake booster. On the engine side of the booster mounted on a bracket attached near the top of the firewall is a brass valve with two levers on the top with a cable attached to each lever.You need to visually confirm the heater hoses are all installed to the valve from the engine (one hose leading up from engine to the center of the valve) and from the valve to the heater core (two hoses from the valve to the core inside the car with another coming out of the firewall and leading to the area of the water pump via, probably, a steel line with some rubber connections at the ends).

Next you need to check the valve is operating properly in response to movement of the cables by the dash slides. The cables run to the valve from inside the firewall and are attached at the dash end to the two air temperature slides on the dash. The valve directs water to the two halves of the heater core when you move the dash slides.

You need to confirm the cables are attached to the valve levers and that the valve levers move when you move the dash slides. If attached and they move as required, then the valve could be plugged with crud. It is fairly easy to remove and clean. New sealing O-rings can be found at NAPA.

If the slides move but there is no movement of the levers, then the cables may have parted or slipped from their attachments in the slide mechanism. As I recall, you will need to remove the console to get access to repair anything related to the dash slides. As you sort out your radio issues (your other post) it will be a good time to take inventory of the related issues with your heater and controls and make any under-dash repairs that are needed.

So long as there is a supply of hot water into the valve, the valve opens and closes with your dash levers, the valve is connected to a good heater core which is drained back to the engine, then there is no good reason for your heater to not work.

Back to your car...I notice you have the all red tail light lenses. Keep these safe, the only replacements I am aware of in this country are the red/amber lenses found on later models.

Good luck with your 220/8...

230/8

230/8:

Wow, that's a load of help! I'll post back here after I investigate the heater setup. Thanks a million for the lowdown on this particular system...as I wrote before, I've worked on lots of old cars, but these Benzes are just a little different in certain areas (am I'm sure you're well aware).

Thanks again, and I'll post back soon!!!
MC

A-Ha!

The left-hand vent slider (for heat) was not connected to the valve. The right-hand unit is stuck (rusty cable), but shouldn't be too hard to coax loose.

I opened the driver's-side valve before work this morning and was delighted when I started to feel warm air rushing out of the vents!!!

Thanks, thanks, thanks to you guys for pointing the way on this.

I'm going to start a new thread about my overall progress on the car, including a few questions about various other little bugs I have yet to work out.

Best regards,
Michael

Everyone loves a happy ending.

Heat in do da

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15 VW Passat TDI
00 E420
98 E300 DT
97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME!
97 S500
97 E300D
86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D
86 300SDL
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Michael:

Glad this is turning out to be easy to fix. The cable may be fairly easy, too. The firewall ends are accessible so if necessary you may be able to loosen the cable from the lever (it is attached to the valve insert with a screw) and spray in some good rust penetrant, like Kroil which in my opinion is one of the best. However, even that may be unnecessary once you get both the valve inserts cleaned and free moving. My recollection is that the cable/housing is lined to allow smooth movement and prevent rust, but I may be wrong in that. A quick inspection will tell you a bunch...

Cheers,

230/8

KRIOL Rules! There is nothing that it won't penetrate and loosen, at worst, overnight. It is indeed the best. Growing up we always had a can or two around. Dad was a power company lineman and they used it to loosen the very large and very rusted nuts & bolts on the big towers carrying the power lines. I just managed to score 3 cans. Gave one to Dad.

Nice working on a 114 chassis. I miss my 250C in that regard. Stink simple and well built. Good luck with your project.

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Present
1971 280SE W108

1967 250SE W111
Rhode Island
_____________
Auf Wiedersehen
1972 280SE 4.5 (AKA Das Moneypitten)
1972 250C (Mit den zwei carburetors from hell)

"Time fly’s like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana" Groucho Marx

Fellas:

I used Liquid Wrench on the blower motor...though I couldn't aim it well under that immovable metal shroud that covers the blower. Now my car has that lovely penetrating lubricant scent!

So nice having warm air after driving around ice-cold the past few days.

Thanks again, everybody!
MC