I confirmed today that the steering gearbox is leaking. I have the seal kit, but this looks like a fun job. I was quoted $675.00 to rebuild the steering gear box by a know Mercedes shop. Does this sound right? Is this a job one could do at home? Is it possible to get a rebuilt gearbox (will call Rusty tommorrow) The steering is fine, not loose at all just leaking fluid.

Thanks,

Ron

how about looking for a used one? I had a bad unit in my 68 280s, cost bazillions, just got a used one for $70, works fine. good luck!!!

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71 220D 169K wrecked
83 240D 118K sweet 4 speed
91 350SDL (one of the 60% good engines) 156K
84 300d (loaner to my sister) 189K
79 300SD (partswagen)
86 420SEL partswagen
70 220d (partswagen)
68 280s GASSER!!! under construction now
85 300sd 310K miles winter beater car retired
93 300d 2.5 turbo 168K wife's car
83 280SL euro 5 speed 155K
69 250S newest project 54K

I used this place a while ago for a 107 steering box, and it worked out well, but don't forget Phil, our sponsor.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-123-chassis-car-Power-Steering-Gear-Box-240D_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33589QQihZ010QQitemZ200068219026QQrdZ1

__________________
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

My steering box was leaking badly from the "round nut," that has the two jam nuts on top just last month. It turned out to be a cracked o-ring that was not to hard to replace. I was able to buy the o-ring from a local foreign parts store out of their metric o-ring kit. After you remove the acorn nut and jam nut, accurately measure the amount of threaded shaft that sticks above the "round nut,". Then use a small wrench to hold the end of the threaded rod and with a pin spanner, back out the "round nut," and replace the o-ring. I put silicon grease on the o-ring and lubed the area where it fits and then wrenched it back into place. After measuring to make sure I didn't mess up the preload adjustment I reinstalled the jam nut, copper washer, and acorn nut.

I intially thought mine was leaking from the top (dome/jamb nut) as well. I was able to get the dome nut off quite easy, but the jamb nut will not move.. It will only spin both the nut and the metal cover below. I tried to grip the shaft with both a small wrench (it has flats) and finally a vice grip can not get it to come loose. I guess that now I do have a problem.. The cover with the pin spanner appears not to move up or down in either direction. I assumed that it was threaded and the seals would be under the cover. Looking at the prices of a rebuilt gearbox now.

Ron

Ron, I had the same issue with mine. The round nut is threaded in the center and is free to turn with the shaft. The needle bearing under the round nut is held in place by a retaining ring. The threaded shaft does not come out with the round nut and in fact I used it to pull the round nut back in with the new o-ring. You need to loosen the jam nut while holding the round nut with a pin spanner. Then you should be able to grip the flats on the threaded shaft and use the pin spanner to unscrew the round nut out.

Thanks Rick,
I will get the pin spanners out, and if I don't have one I will make one. I checked on a rebuilt, and apprentally they are rare.. Mine can be rebuilt for $550.00 I guess at that price I would just go to the shop and let them have all the fun for the $125.00 differance. Will see if I can fix this one myself firts

Ron

Ron, I sent you a PM concerning the diagrams that I have. If you make the spanner, take into consideration the lack of space you have to turn it. I wound up using my old bicycle pin spanner with a shorter handle.