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#1
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Climate Control Levers - Any Tricks?
Hello all -
I recently bought a set of climate control levers for my W111 coupe. All of mine are missing. I know they are "break away" parts - apparently mine have? My levers actually move okay with a long, thin-bladed screw driver. I'm guessing I should try and lubricate the bowden cables that control everything - any tricks to this? Do I need to dig into the dash or can this be avoided? Do the replacement black plastic lever/knobs just slip into the control levers? Thanks AGAIN, Tom Webb |
#2
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Levers
Yes they just slip into the recepticals after you remove the broken piece. I got a set of chrome metal levers from a 190SL-they look better than plastic and will never break. I'll post a pic if you want to see them.
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Tony H W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe Manual transmission Past cars: Porsche 914 2.0 '64 Jaguar XKE Roadster '57 Oval Window VW '71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new '73 Toyota Celica GT |
#3
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Tony - I'd love to see 'em. Maybe that's what I should have gotten! Any tricks to dislodging the plastic remnants? - Tom
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#4
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Several, in fact.
You must remove the faceplate -- a couple of 10mm nuts on the back side (W108 chassis, but I suspect the W111 is very similar). You reach them from the radio speaker hole -- you will have to remove the grille and speaker or blank cover if you have stereo radio installation. You will have to remove the cables from the levers, they slip over the plastic tube in the center (the large hole). There is a cap on the top and bottom of the tube, I think, one or two small screws. If the lamps are bad, this is a good time to replace them. Watch you don't break off the plastic light guide for the ash tray. The cable clamps are accessed from above -- don't try to remove the clamp from the bottom levers from underneath, you will damage something. You have to move them around until the hole in the top lever exposes the phillips head screw in the clamp. You don't have to take the assembly out, but it's rather fiddly. Mark the cables so you get them back in the same spot in the clamps. The reason the heat control levers break is stuck heater valves. Unscrew the lever, screw in a Bosch spark plug as a handle, and work them in and out until they come free. Clean them up, put new o-ring seals on them, grease them with silicone grease, and re-install. You will be amazed at how easily they move afterward. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#5
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I believe the 108 setup is totally different from the 111 levers but I'm not sure. fortunatlly my levers didn't totally break off. I think if you had some kind of probe with a hook you could reach in and pull out the fragment. Here are some pics of the levers. It's kind of hard to see with the glare of the flash. My dash is partially dissasembled due work I'm doing on the car. I bought them on Ebay. Here is the search I use for misc parts:
http://motors.search.ebay.com/mercedes_Vintage-Car-Truck-Parts_W0QQcatrefZC3QQfclZ3QQfromZR2QQfsooZ2QQfsopZ2QQsacatZ10073QQsamcmZ6028
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Tony H W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe Manual transmission Past cars: Porsche 914 2.0 '64 Jaguar XKE Roadster '57 Oval Window VW '71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new '73 Toyota Celica GT |
#6
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Thanks guys - VERY helpful! My parts haven't shown up yet, but I'm looking forward to fixing all the little things as we get warmer outside. No furnace in the garage...Tony - the chrome ones look fantasitic! I have a long-handled dentist's pick that just might do the trick. Lights?! There are supposed to be lights!? Now that would be nice....
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#7
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lights
I don't think the 111 heater levers have lights-at least mine do not.
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Tony H W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe Manual transmission Past cars: Porsche 914 2.0 '64 Jaguar XKE Roadster '57 Oval Window VW '71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new '73 Toyota Celica GT |
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