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  #16  
Old 05-26-2007, 07:08 PM
Gurunutkins's Avatar
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just a word of caution if you are changing the chain, some poor guy earlier tried to take off the timing cover while the engine was in the car to change the chain, cant be done without pulling the oil pan and for that you have to pull the motor. Just change the upper rails and feed the new chain through, its been well documented in this forum. just use 3 sets of vise grips and work slowly takes about 35 minutes.

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74 450sl
76 Cadillac 8.2l (501 ci)

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djet 74 450sl http://www.mercdjetmegasquirt.britautorepair.com/
cis 76 450sl http://www.merccismegasquirt.britautorepair.com/

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  #17  
Old 05-26-2007, 07:14 PM
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Thanks for the tip, but that is definitely a "been there done that" situation for me. The last time I managed to only get the motor up far enough to get the oil pan off, but it was still a right PITA dealing w/ the damn oil chain...

I need to inspect further and see if there's enough rail damage that I feel I need to pull it out to get to the lower ones or just feed it in through the top.

I'll keep everyone posted.
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  #18  
Old 07-24-2007, 01:09 PM
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Update:

Since my last post I have done the following:

-New Timing Chain/Tensioner (damn those Tensioners are expensive).
-Discovered that the ECU had been opened and tampered with to meet US emissions.
-New Throttle Position Sensor installed & adjusted.
-”New” used unmolested euro 3.5 ECU.

As is always nice, each item replaced improved the cars idle & runability, but the surging/bucking issue was persistent. It was the ECU that (so far) appears to have solved the problem. Initially after replacing the ECU it fired off after barely touching the key () and high idled perfect for 15-20 sec, but then it was hunting like crazy at idle (just like it had when I was trying to adjust the TPS and had the Idle Air Hose off). So I checked for vac leaks, re-adjusted the TPS just in case, and took off down the road. No bucking. Sweet. Finally.

She’s now back-firing around 4500rpms (give or take, the tach wasn’t plugged in...). I know that various parts of the D-Jet will need tuning in now w/ the ‘new’ ECU. They HAD to adjust other parts of the fuel system to make it run after ‘adjusting’ the original ECU. And I need to set the timing “all in” now that I feel better about reving it up with the new chain in.

Any other suggestions as to what to look at for back-firing at the upper end of the revs?

Thanks for all the info and help!
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Currently:
1972 350SL Euro 4spd
1973 BMW R75/5
1981 BMW R80GS
1995 FZJ80 with OM606 Conversion In Progress
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  #19  
Old 07-24-2007, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 350SL4spd View Post
Update:
It was the ECU that (so far) appears to have solved the problem. Initially after replacing the ECU it fired off after barely touching the key () and high idled perfect for 15-20 sec,!
I knew it! It sounded a lot like the problems that I was having.
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  #20  
Old 08-22-2007, 03:37 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Charlottesville, VA
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Congrats, so you got it running w/o the bucking. New ECU- curious, where did you find that?

I still have to install my Pertronix- just have been away and busy and all that. But I am driving the car, it is running pretty sweet but I know it will improve with the new coil and all. I just got the data card decoded by MB Classic- so cool. Appears that my car is indeed all orginal down to the locking gas cap (that I almost pitched a few weeks ago...) Only thing not stock are the BBS wheels.

Found out it came with Pirelli's, and was born Oct. 14, 1971.
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  #21  
Old 08-22-2007, 05:24 PM
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Got the ECU off eBay, actually. Not too many people looking for the grey-market 3.5 ECU & he didn't put a reserve on it, so I got it cheap.

At this point I'm happy collecting any (reasonably priced) 3.5 parts I can get my hands on. They're hard to find and I know I'll need them sooner or later.

Keep me up to date on your project. The way mine's going I'll be lucky to get it out on the road next summer...

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1972 350SL Euro 4spd
1973 BMW R75/5
1981 BMW R80GS
1995 FZJ80 with OM606 Conversion In Progress
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