Cool shiny air filter. Yes, the lid has been flipped and the thread has been cut shorter.




Accelerator linkage still isn't connected, neither is the choke. It's a warm day so I just left it open.

It started as soon as it got fuel pressure. Runs smooth, but the idle is very high, around 2000 rpm. Yeah. Idle adjustment screws are backed off all the way, I think the primary throttle plates are stuck or something. No big deal, I'll mess with it some more later this week.

It runs pretty smooth (just hitting the throttle, not ready to drive yet) through all rpms, just need to get that damn idle down lower. Secondaries are disabled for now until I can get it running nicely. More to come!

Check for vacuum leaks around the rear baseplate.

I used a thick gasket for the manifold. Don't use just a thin paper gasket.

The choke assembly has vacuum going to it internally. I removed my assembly entirely and blocked it's vacuum supply.

Looking good!

I must say, thank you for all of your input Mike. This would've taken 20 times longer without your help. If I even tried it at all...

My pleasure to help you. Now, it's your turn to help the next one.

It looks very nice. The air cleaner looks just like the one I used on my bavaria.

Tom W

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Did a bit of mickey mousing and got the throttle linkage hooked up.



I went to the dealer and pieced together an adjustable ball and socket linkage, works pretty well. Need to do some tweaking with the return springs though. No idea what I'll do there.

Starts up instantly, drives pretty well. A bit of a stutter sometimes, but much nicer than the Solex was. Pretty bad vacuum leak in the base gasket so the idle is really high, I should be able to fix that in a few days. Modified to choke housing to accept a manual choke cable, but there is currently no need for it (summer in socal, just pump the gas once and it's running fine). Secondaries are still disabled, not sure what i'm going to do about that.

Of course, I now have a coolant leak that decided to give me a little surprise:



There goes my weekend.

Figured out the air leak, gasket was too small, got a thicker one, works GREAT now. Idles nice and smooth and there is plenty of power. It does hiccup sometimes, but the valves need to be adjusted badly and I suspect one spark plug is cross threaded.

Also need to replace the water pump, it's loosing about a gallon every ten minutes. Yeah, that bad.

But it's running great. Vacuum seems a bit weak though, anybody know what the specs are for this engine? Also, is that a vacuum pump in front of the passenger side camshaft?

What a fantastic job!

__________________
With best regards

Al

Vacuum is low for these engines. The best I have had on my M110 with all the different carb configurations is about 14.5".

You might be having fuel supply issues.
I replaced the stock fuel pump with an electric in-line style.

Yup, that's an auxillary vacuum pump.

Enjoy changing the water pump. Pull the radiator and tackle it from the front. You can do it from the top and bottom but oh what a pain!

Change out the hoses while you are there. Check the thermostat housing for build-up. Keep a tap and die set handy for the water pump mounting holes.

Replaced the water pump, what a mess that was. Got the car running pretty well but for some reason the car has a tendency to stall when it comes to a full stop while hot unless I keep the revs up. Idle is adjusted pretty high, above 1200 rpm (for now) but it still goes a lot lower than that, typically after freeway deceleration. Vacuum is good,

Grabbed an electric fuel pump to bypass the stock mechanical one, not sure what I should do with the stock regulator. Keep it or get an adjustable one?

I really don't have a problem throwing parts at this car because there is so much that probably needs to be replaced. I'll be rebuilding a fuel injected m110, but I don't expect to be finished with it till springtime.

It sounds like it may be running lean.

Did you compare the jets and metering rods from the 67 Pontiac sprint? (you may be running them already. I don't have a clue off the top of my head what the specs are specifically).

Most of the q jets were put on very large displacement motors and run very lean jetting compared to the sprint motor. The jets and metering rods for a 500 ci caddy are leaner than for a 350 ci chebby, etc. The pontiac sprint motor at around 240 ci is the closest thing to our 175 ci benz motors, and given its rpm range compared to ours the flow is comparable at the higher rpm that the benz motor operates at.

They worked perfectly for my three liter bmw.

bucking and running hot are both lean condition indicators.

There is a graph which shows behavior at different fuel air mixes. Most desireable is 14 to one. Surge, lean backfire, heavy bucking and overheating is shown in the area from 16 up to 19 to one ratios.

I looked at my q jet book. It is from HP books (copyright 1986). I cannot figure out how I determined the metering rods to order from the 67 sprint motor. It doesn't seem to be in here. I have hand written in the back near the publisher's address etc. the name Tom Monore and two phone numbers....probably not good anymore, but you never know, it might be worth a try....602 888 2150 and 800 528 4923. I am pretty sure the metering rods are the skinniest available and the orifice jets are the largest.

I had my secondaries up and working fine. I ended up with an all manual linkage, no vac operated secondaries and manual choke. You just had to wait til it was up around 2500 or 3000 rpm before opening up the secondaries or it would just bog right down.

Good luck.

Tom W

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Wow, the car is running great.... got the timing set somewhat right and everything. Pulls very hard. Only major problem is that it wants to stall after I deceleration from high speeds, no idea why, but it just bogs down very best.

It's stalling because the M110 doesn't pull very much vacuum at idle. It doesn't have the suction to pull the fuel out of the bowl and into the air stream. Either adjust up the idle speed or add an idle speed solenoid onto the acc linkage lever. It probably had one and you removed it thinking it was for A/C speed control.

Go ahead, ask me why I would think that!

Hah, I didn't remove it but it isn't connected to anything. You're referring to the solenoid on the bottom left of the carb with the green wire just dangling there, right?



If so, what would I connect the wire to so it only engages when it needs to engage? Because I'd rather not have the idle speed set higher up all the time because it will rev up to 2500 rpm when it's just sitting there.

Fuel injection is looking better and better every second.