As many of you know I have been rebuilding my M130 engine ('72 250) and I just got it reinstalled today, but...

Once I got the motor bolted up the engine wouldn't turn over - completely locked up. Since it turned over fine before installing, I assumed I did something wrong at the torque converter end - which after unbolting the motor was proved correct as the motor would then turn over just fine.

I pulled the engine again - enough to get a look at the converter and to make sure it was pushed all the way back - which I think it was. Reinstalled and tried turning the motor before bolting it up. Looking through the starter hole I could see the torque converter turning with the flywheel, but the holes were not lined up to bolt the flywheel to the TC.

What am I not doing here? How do I ge the holes to line up? I thought this part was pretty straightforward, especially after the time and trouble getting the top bolts in and tightened!

BTW, I judged if I had pushed the TC in far enough by spinning it and seeing if the drain plug lined up with the hole in the transmission case, which it did.

ryan

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RG Newell

1984 300D
1972 250
1986 560SL
1991 300CE

With the transmission mounting bolts started you should have sufficient front to rear movement in the torque converter to slide it back enough to manually turn the converter and allow you to start the bolts. If you don't have any play then you don't have the converter completely seated.

This is a torque converter and not a fluid coupling, correct?

I've just been reading about that question and I'm still not sure - what's the difference?

Checking the manual, MB seems to use the terms interchangeably.

ryan

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RG Newell

1984 300D
1972 250
1986 560SL
1991 300CE

I think the T/C needs to go further into the trans. Turn the T/C and push with light pressure into the trans. You should feel and see it slide into the trans when it engages the oil pump. The T/C should spin freely after the engine and trans are bolted together. This would apply to either a T/C or fluid coupling.

A fluid coupler and a torque converter have different internal construction. Both have teeth on their inner parts that mate up to the splines on the transmission's input shaft.

A torque converter also has teeth to catch the splines of the pump housing of the transmission.

If the teeth don't line up, the parts won't fit together correctly. You should be able to spin the coupler or converter and get a corresponding spin on the tail shaft when you're not in park or neutral.

-CTH

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- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

I got it all together - no big deal really, just had them out of alignment just a little!

I have made considerable progress in the last few days - and have dodged some major pitfalls! Broke a stud off in the cylinder head and couldn't get the intake/exhaust manifold back on, had to re-pull the crankshaft damper after forgetting to attach the alternator bracket to the bolt that 'hides' behind the damper, etc., etc.

Anyway, I have it all back together except for a few odds and ends - at this point I feel like it will be a miracle if I get it running again!

Any initial start-up advice? I'm getting a little nervous...

ryan

__________________
RG Newell

1984 300D
1972 250
1986 560SL
1991 300CE

Disconnect the Coil wire and crank the engine to distribute oil.
I guess you could even remove the spark plugs, so it spins faster.

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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old