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#1
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Correct retorque procedure
Hi all,
I just replaced the head gasket on my 72 250 M130 W114, and I was getting ready to fire her up, but I figured I would check the retorque procedure. The haynes manual doesn't say squat, and I can't find anything on the CD. I did a quick look on the site and I've found some people mention hot, others cold, others say to remove the rad cap, others say to back it off by 1/4 one at a time in sequece others say to back them all off in sequence and retroque. Which one is it? Also, the towers that the valve cover bolts up to did not align. Any tips for that one? Also any tricks to keeping the valve cover gasket one while trying to sit it on the head? Thanks |
#2
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Initial torque is at stone cold. Run engine to operating temperature, allow to cool then re-torgue. Check the torque again after 4 hours of operation or 100 miles.
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#3
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Thanks Mike,
Do I back off the head bolts at all? or just retorque as is? |
#4
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Backing the bolts off is a matter of preference. You can back them off (apx 1/4 turn) for the initial re-torque but don't do it for the final check. You don't need to loosen them all at the same time. Just do each one in the recommended tightening sequence.
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#5
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The correct procedure is to back off each head bolt one at a time about 1/4 turn and re-torque it to specs, then move to the next bolt in the pattern. If you just pull on the bolt you will not get it right because breakaway torque is higher than the clamping torque.
230/8 |
#6
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Ok,
So wait until it's cold, back it off 1/4 turn and re-torque to 110 NM? or back to 40, 70, 110? Also, any advice for recentering the valve cover towers? Thanks again! |
#7
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One pull...to the final torque. The three-step bit is for initial installation.
You got me on the tower thing. Mine are fine and never have been a problem. I don't even recall their configuration because I just never take notice of them when I pull things off for valve adjustments. Any chance something could be reversed? 230/8 |
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