Thank you so much. Those are great instructions. First thing tomorrow, changing the oil...then the glow plugs.
For future reference, how do you clean the filter in the oil bath? And once I get around to the fuel filters (I think I found them both) how many times do I pump the primer pump? ( I think I said that right)
Thanks

__________________
Anthony
'76 W115 240D
'67 IH Scout 800
'61 IH Scout 80

Fill the oil in the oil filter bath to the mark where it reaches the internal lip.

You have the cannister filter at the front end of the engine, you have to push down on it since it is spring loaded and make sure the O-ring is seated otherwise the housing will leak profusely. The clear filter before the IP and between the hard lines is obvious.

Once the filters have been changed get all of the air out of the clear prefilter and crack the top bolt where the fuel goes to the return line so that air can be bled out. Pump the plunger pump until air stops leaking out and then tighten it up. Start up the car and it should be good to go. You may feel a bubble or two of air go through the system in the form of a stutter of the engine but that's normal.

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

You say you found 2 filters? Is one of them a small inline style before the lift pump? If so, then it is just a baffle. It's designed to prevent fluctuations in the fuel supply line. It's basically a straight through plastic connecter with a partially blocked center chamber. Remove, clean and replace.

Which style of oil filter do you have? The one mounted on top or the housing on the lower driver's side of the engine?

If it's the lower one, get ready for a treat. If your engine mounts are worn it is an experience the first few times.

The glow plugs are out...I cleaned the ceramic cups and the wire loops. NOW...no one in town has glow plugs...I guess I should have checked prior to pulling them out. How do I clean these things? Im sure this has been answered somewhere, but I cant seem to find it.
Thanks

__________________
Anthony
'76 W115 240D
'67 IH Scout 800
'61 IH Scout 80

OK...heres the latest (for those that may be interested)
I replaced the GPs...had to find new ones as two of them were bad. I replaced the oil filter, which was a real PITA!! That should be some sort of right of passage. Changed the oil also. Im still not getting a glow from the "pepper shaker". Would like to figure that out, but its not a priority. The car starts up a little easier than before, idles fine and no smoke. BUT.....
NEW PROBLEM:
Theres a fair amount of diesel bubbling out of the area where the hand pump is. Cant tell if its coming from the bottom of the pump or the 2 bolts just to the side of it? In order for me to get the oil canister out from under the car, I had to jack the engine up about 3/4 of an inch. I did this just in front of the oil pan behind some sort of crossmember. Could I have broke something loose? Any suggestions would be great. The diesel only leaks when the car is on.

Thanks!

__________________
Anthony
'76 W115 240D
'67 IH Scout 800
'61 IH Scout 80

If it's a white fuel pump plunger with the textured wheel and it's leaking then that is a common problem. There is a replacement one which is different but it works.

http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=23707UH4I25I0N6HDH&year=1976&make=MB&model=240-D-001&category=All&part=Primer+Pump

As for the glow plugs the salt shaker wiring may be faulty and or other glow plugs. Since they're out change them all if you can.

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

Yes...its a white plunger w/ textured wheel. When it first began to leak, after changing the oil, I (naively) plunged it once thinking it would help. It did stop. But this morning after starting the car and letting it idle....it started to leak again.
So is it a coincident that it started to leak after my oil / filter change? Because it wasnt leaking before. How easy / complicated to install one?
Would it hurt to drive it the way it is till the part comes in and installed?
Thanks

__________________
Anthony
'76 W115 240D
'67 IH Scout 800
'61 IH Scout 80

No it's fine just make sure to tighten the plunger down by twisting it because if you don't the IP pump when in operation will force the plunger up and down and leak around the seal dumping fuel everywhere.

The plunger leak has no connection to the oiling system.

__________________
1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

Go ahead and order engine mounts. I guarantee you the driver's side is bad or will be very shortly with a fuel leak.

OK...Im gonna order the primer pump also. No one in town has one. I think I found the cause of the leak...theres a flat round rubber washer under the cap of the plunger part...it was brittle...found one similar and it seemed to stop the leak. I still want to replace the pump though. I do it when I do the 2 fuel filters.

__________________
Anthony
'76 W115 240D
'67 IH Scout 800
'61 IH Scout 80

Any word on figuring out the problem with the salt and pepper shaker glow indicator? I'm having the same problem on my 1970 220D.

I replaced all 4 glow plugs today and she started right up, but there's still no 'glow' from the salt and pepper indicator. What else should I check?

How long are you holding the gorilla knob to the "glow" position? You know, where the "charge" light dims? I usually had to hold it for about 20 seconds for it to become a bright glow.

To everyone that is not getting the dash indicator to glow: no offense, but I really don't think you guys are doing it right. I have personally never seen a car that did not have a functioning glow plug indicator element.


You must pull and hold the knob to the point JUST BEFORE the starter engages. Those springs are pretty stiff so if you're not used to it, it will take some trying before you get it exactly right. I remember when my mother used to drive my 76 240 D and before that our 71 220 D, she would have to brace herself with her other arm and use her weight against the plunger to hold it at the correct position for the amount of time it would take to get the indicator nice and orange.

__________________
TXBill



Former owner of a few diesel MB cars
1998 Lexus ES 300 In Chicago We Trust

you should check the voltage reducing coil on the firewall, near the brake booster, on the drivers side. I have a 200d, that would start some of the time and then sometimes it would not. mine had a bad connection inside the cage, that just needed cleaning, like battery posts do

I jut pull the knob out to the 1/2 way position where it will stay naturally once you release it.

I sort of envision it as a 3 step deal.

Step 1: all the way in, car is off.
Step 2: pull knob out 1/2 way to where it sits 1/2 way out naturally, let it sit like this for 20-30 seconds, salt and pepper never lights up.
Step 3: pull knob out hard, car turns over, eventually starts.

If I'm doing it wrong by all means tell me! I was told to do it this way by my father, who was given the car by my Godfather. Who knows whether the correct instructions were passed along.

I will observe that the car starts this way, even in the winter.