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  #1  
Old 09-04-2007, 12:10 AM
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Location: Dallas, TX
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Weekend wrenching

This weekend was spent doing a number of things. As some may remember, I bought a Mercedes Benz 350SE last year. A fellow lister has been kind enough to store it for me while I get organized here in Dallas.

The car was vandalized prior to the purchase and all the glass with the exception of the rear window was smashed in. On Saturday I was cruising the junk yards and I found a complete W116 300SD. So I got together with a buddy of mine who has a trailer and we pulled the doors, hood, trunk lid and center console from it. The car looked like it was involved in a drug seizure or something as there was police dust all over it and finger print marks. The back seat looked like it was rummaged through.

I did not need the hood and trunk lid but as they are made of aluminum, I thought it would be worth taking. It's actually cheaper to pull the doors and considering the ease the fact that they will sell you the lot for the same price as the window.

Today, the fuel lines were replaced on the 76 6.9. As usual, it was very hard to start and needed carb cleaner to get it going. However once it settled, it would idle much better. A friend who's helping me thinks it had air in the fuel system. I dumped half a can of seafoam into it and it helped it a little more. I was actually able to lay rubber pulling away which was a first because it refuse to rev at all before.

I took the car around the block and it was more responsive. I then shut it off for 5 mins. When I tried to start it again, it would not unless I used carb cleaner. This time it's was hot so it doesn't appear to be a cold start injector.

Does anyone have an idea of what could cause this?

The rest of the day was spent tidying the shop as it is beginning to look like a scrap pile. I picked up two more shelves and did some re-ordering. We can now pull two cars out of the shop which leaves a decent amount of space to move around.

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Al
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  #2  
Old 09-04-2007, 05:45 AM
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have you done the usual timing and checked for vacuum leaks?
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  #3  
Old 09-04-2007, 07:55 AM
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The 6.9 should have C.I.S, right?

If so, you are either loosing residual fuel due to leaking check valves or it's bleeding off through a leaking injector.

You may also have a problem with getting power to the fuel pump during cranking. The pump will only get power when the key is in the start position or if the air plate is moved down by air flowing into the engine.

One way to do a quick check would be with KOEO, press the plate down for a few seconds then try to start the engine. I'm willing to bet it will start right up. Don't leave the plate down too long as you will flood the engine, don't ask how I know this

A different method, which may or may not work is to put it in drive and crank the engine for a bit to see if you can build up fuel pressure.

I have the JC Whitney fuel pressure tester and very much recommend it or one like it.

If you don't have C.I.S., well then, just ignore me.

Michael
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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033
Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120
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  #4  
Old 09-04-2007, 09:10 AM
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Michael

Thanks for the lead on the CIS tester. That's a great price! I've heard that air can leak through the rubber grommets that seal the injectors so I'm also going to try to replace these.

I'll also try to run your check.

All the best

Al
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  #5  
Old 09-04-2007, 01:35 PM
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Let us know if the grommets make a difference, my 450SEL still stumbles a bit sometimes and it still diesels when shut off.

Michael
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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033
Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120
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  #6  
Old 09-04-2007, 02:13 PM
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engine run on may be related to carbon build up. Have you tried using seafoam? It seems to have helped smoothen out my 280SEL 4.5 quite well. It's well worth the 3-4 bucks.
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  #7  
Old 09-09-2007, 08:03 PM
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This weekend was a lot of fun. On Saturday I decided to wash the 280SEL seeing as I've given up on selling it and now plan to keep it.

While I was washing it, I decided to pull the carpet out which looked super filthy and scrub them with car shampoo and a brush that I normally use on my wheels. Then I hit them with a pressure washer.

Words cannot describe the amount of crap that came flowing out of the carpets. It was like a river of crap. I kept the pressure washer on the carpet for minutes and until the water went clear. Then I left them hanging up against the wall. Sure enough as I did, more brown water would pour out.

I then scrubbed the central tunnel down and used a deep cleaner with a hand attachment to suck the water out. The carpet is a day and night difference. If you guys have original carpets in your vintage, you want to try it.

A guy who I have working with me came to me with a proposition which is to do the complete bodywork on the 59 Ford F100 in exchange for a high end tig welder. As there is at least 100 hours in that truck I figured it could be a good deal. So I went and looked at a Miller Synchrowave 180. The seller was a very pleasant chap who spent about an hour walking us through the welder and then let us practice on it.

The deal was done, and we loaded up 220lbs of welder and a 5 ft tall welding cylinder into the truck and headed back.

Today we put another shelve and swapped out the rear end on the MGB with a wire wheel rear on from a 69 BGT that I recently parted. The weather is starting to cool so I am really keen on getting this car running. I also added leak sealer and some R406a to the 280SEL which now blows cool, but who knows for how long.

The 76 6.9 is still giving me grief on start up. I tried Michal's test of pushing the throttle plate down for a bit and it let fuel and could tell that it let fuel into the throttle body. But not enough to get it running. It still needed starting fluid to get it started and running. I'm not sure if it's leaky injectors as they would have the opposite effect right?

Thoughts and opinion's on the 6.9 are appreciated.
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Old 09-10-2007, 11:28 AM
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On the 6.9, if it has a sunroof, open it up a crack. Everytime you walk by it throw the money you have in your pockets into the crack. When the money overflows, flip the car on it's top and empty the change. Cash the change out and go buy an SL. Crush the 6.9.

I'm not a big fan of the 6.9 as if you couldn't tell.
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  #9  
Old 09-10-2007, 11:36 AM
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Interesting comment Mike. My silver car has been a very reliable car and is a hoot to drive. Apart from the bodywork that I did at the bigining it has been super reliable.

I think that a lot of people are put off these cars for the wrong reasons. But if it keeps the prices low, then that's all good.
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  #10  
Old 09-10-2007, 02:52 PM
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The 6.9 works for you because you appreciate and maintain it. MOST 6.9's are usually 3rd or 4th owner cars which have had their problems shuffled to the next owner. So in all fairness I should say I am not a big NEGLECTED 6.9 fan.
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  #11  
Old 09-14-2007, 01:08 PM
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So Al. I take it you do indeed need that windshield? -CTH
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  #12  
Old 09-14-2007, 10:02 PM
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There is a local SD here that I can pull parts from. But if I replace the front glass, i would probably use new glass as it's only $250 installed. From what I understand replacing glass is a huge pain so I prefer for a pro to do it at that price.
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Old 09-23-2007, 11:32 PM
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This weekend, I bought the 6.9 back to life. It has a short somewhere and hence if you leave it too long without running it, it will drain the battery. Well a month ago I left it too long and it drained the battery. Then i left it where it was.

Today I took it to the shop and washed the grime off it. Then I spent the rest of the time cleaning a used W108 gas tank that was given to me by a friend. The one in my car has the neck pushed back from the accident (as pictures) and hence it's hard to fill the tank up.

I washed it first with degreaser and then wash it down and then hit it with a pressure washer. A lot of varnish came out but not much rust which is nice. I then washed it with Muriatic Acid to eat away any rust and fuel and then hit it again with a pressure washer.

I was going to use POR15 to line it but I may not as the tank appears to be rust free and did not leak at all.

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  #14  
Old 09-23-2007, 11:48 PM
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on Saturday I spent my day walking around the junkyard. Grabbed 2 wheels for their tires to put on the Pontiac I'm selling for a friend (the wheels will make good spares for snow tires). Also got a MAF and marker light for it, which made it run a lot better (the MAF, not the light).

Today I washed my silver 300M really well, and waxed it. I didn't get to wiping the wax off until the sun had set so I couldn't see how well it came out. Hopefully it looks really nice! I think tomorrow, before work, I'll wash the wheels (didn't have the time to yesterday). The washing took about 30 mins and the waxing took about 1 hr (it was quite dirty!), with dinner between the washing and waxing.
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  #15  
Old 09-24-2007, 03:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alabbasi View Post
engine run on may be related to carbon build up. Have you tried using seafoam? It seems to have helped smoothen out my 280SEL 4.5 quite well. It's well worth the 3-4 bucks.

I've put 3 cans of seafoam through it so far.

I've fixed a number of vacuum leaks, the timing is spot, the mixture is .2 - .5% and the fuel pressures check out OK.

There is a ticking that I think is a worn ball stud, (the hydraulic compensating type) I have the measuring tool but need to get off my butt and take the valve covers off.

I also am entertaining the thought that an injector is not closing when it should and donates a bit of fuel.

The last tank was premium and seafoam and it has quieted a bit but still wants to go an extra rev or two.

Michael

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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033
Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120
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