So who is a reliable vendor for the Pertronix points replacement system and coil? Anybody know a part # I could use?

I'm running a 1970 w108 280S inline 6 gasser.

I'd like to order it online.

Thanks!

http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/mercedes.htm

Doublecheck your bosch distributor number with Pertronix's customer service to ensure you're selecting the right kit.

Grab one of those uprated coils as well. You'll be pleased with the upgrade.

Those are the same folks I have dealt with. Prior to that I bought from some idiot who sells them on ebay out of CA but he didn't even put anything in the box to protect it and the coil came cracked...of course he wanted me to file an insurance claim for $30 - no thanks...more time than it is worth. Retrorockets ships fast, packs well and their price is reasonable.

__________________
Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

I got mine at Jeg's online for my 71 280SE M130, good price.

http://www.jegs.com/

__________________
Present
1971 280SE W108

1967 250SE W111
Rhode Island
_____________
Auf Wiedersehen
1972 280SE 4.5 (AKA Das Moneypitten)
1972 250C (Mit den zwei carburetors from hell)

"Time fly’s like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana" Groucho Marx

Has anyone ever used the CraneCams XR700/3000 optical setup? I have had good luck with mine in my 914 thus far. Anyone know the kit to use on our cars? They have a couple of kits that say they work on cars with Bosch points...

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Nathan
'74 280C - gone to a new home for the finishing it deserves.
'64 356SC
'74 914 2.0

I've used the Crane on several Benz's.

I'm currently running the XR-700 on a M115 with the blue Bosch coil with no resistor.

I have the XR-700 on my '73 M110 using a Crane coil and one ballast resistor.

Never had a problem. I've doubled the life of my spark plugs and I've been able to increase the gap and go to a "colder" plug.

I'd never go back to points. I thought about the Pertronix but I read about a couple of units frying with the key on and engine not running.

Well, I went with vintage performance, so I'll report back when everything arrives.

Went with the ignitor I even though the ignitor II is available for my distributor, seems as if #1 has worked well in the past for others why goof with success. Also ordered the 3 ohm 40000 volt flamethrower coil.

I personally can't wait to get rid of all the "engineering" all over the left fender of my engine compartment.

Jeff

I think the only thing the II does that the I doesn't is protect itself from self destruct if you leave the key on with the engine not running. It does happen though so just be aware if the engine stalls you need to shut the key off before you find it DOA.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

I bought mine from retrorockets, per another forum member's suggestion. Immediate shipping, great to deal with. I haven't installed mine yet. Maybe you could post your progress with installing it and the end results? (My pertronix and flamethrower coil are going on a 3.5 euro v8- if anyone has further experience with that engine, feel free to post, too!)

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94 E320
71 350SL

I always recommend a kill switch when using the Pert 1 ..that way, you do not have to have power when using Key ON situations [ like valve adjusting or compression test ,electrical testings, etc.] ..and that gives you the added benefit of a cheap Theft device. I have seen many Pert burn ups due to key-on condition.
I personally prefer Optical Switching over Hall Effect due to cleaner switching and no voltage variable at low RPM. But, either is way better than mechanical switching of points, for sure........

I had the Crane on my 73' 280se 4.5 M117 with excellent results. Never visited the ignition again.

__________________
Present
1971 280SE W108

1967 250SE W111
Rhode Island
_____________
Auf Wiedersehen
1972 280SE 4.5 (AKA Das Moneypitten)
1972 250C (Mit den zwei carburetors from hell)

"Time fly’s like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana" Groucho Marx

I put mine in a 4.5, essentially the same engine...it wasn't a problem. I just removed all the of switchgear, ballasts and wiring and made sure I wired into the +12V switched wire that fed the old system. I don't recall if that dizzy required the little grinding mod to the advance arm or not, but even if so it is not a big deal (on some you need to grind the edge off of the advance arm so it doesn't interfere with the magnet wheel). There is a good "how to" article online: http://www.mbzponton.org/valueadded/maintenance/ignitionpert/ignitionpert.htm

I know I had to do this mod on one of mine, but I don't recall which one.

__________________
Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Ordered this morning, shipping out today. Maybe I'll see the parts in a few days and let the fun begin!

Sounds good, I'll look into that then, do you remember what kit you bought for the M110? Good to hear another good review.

__________________
Nathan
'74 280C - gone to a new home for the finishing it deserves.
'64 356SC
'74 914 2.0

I bought the XR-700 kit for European imports. It comes with three or four of the plastic optical trigger wheels. 4,6 or 8 cylinder. Select the one you need and slip it on. Mount the optical reader/switch, wire it in, mount the control unit, do whatever mods you need to the coil and never touch it again.

6 years on the M115 and 2 years on the M110.