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I recently purchased this car for my wife and would like
to fix everything that is wrong with it. So I am looking for as much help as possible. I was also was wondering if this is a decent year/model and or have any trouble spots. PROBLEM LIST 1- when letting off the accelerator it stays engaged to the trans and winds down. is this how it should be? 2- vaccum doors wont lock/unlock "any known trouble spots?" 3- shifts a little harsh sometimes. 4- idles high and shakes. Can I turn it down? How? 5- when turning left sometimes it moans from left rear. 6- sometimes when I try to start it, it wont idle high and shakes real bad at low rpm then dies no matter how much gas I try to give, and then is hard to start for about 1 minute. 7- rumbles under the car from 20mph-30mph. The car has new cap,rotor,wires,plugs, but I didnt replace them. They came with. The car is beautiful and deserves to be fixed. Theres no rust and never been wrecked. I would really appreciate as much input as possible. Thanks Aaron
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1972 280sel 4.5 |
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Your car uses the D-jet EFI system. There are lots of posts on the subject. Send me an email and I will send you a zip file containing info on the system.
The best thing you can do for youself is visit ebay and get the manual for the 108-109-111-113 cars. DON'T pay more than 40$ for it. There are always several of these manuals for sale. Any copy will do. Also, there is a separate manual for the engine in your car, look for the M116/M117 manual for the 4.5 cars. I think there is one up for sale right now. Vacuum to the door locks comes from a yellow plastic hose that enters the cabin by the master cylinder. Pick up a hand vacuum pump (ie mighty vac) for about 30$ and undo the rubber tee under the hood. Use the pump as the vacuum source for the cabin, instead of the motor. Be sure to cap off the line from the motor and see if your transmission works any better. Also be sure to check your tranny fluid level. By the way, the leg of the tee that goes under the driver's fender is to a "vacuum reserve tank". Leave that out of the test circuit too. Once the pump establishes a vacuum for you, see which, if any locks work. Next, take the driver's door apart. Treat the door skin with TLC. The metal clips that hold it to the door are imbedded into a rather brittle material. Don't tear them off the door in a hurry. The fun part about taking the door panel off are the doo-dads that are in the way. - The pocket stays with the panel, leave it alone. - The arm rest has 3 large Phillips screws holding it in. Two on the underside, one at the top. Gently pry off the chome at the top to get to that screw. - The inner door handle has a black piece of plastic that must be very gently pried off. Look for a small notch on one edge. The chrome cage around the black part comes off with a philips screwdriver after. - Just unscrew the door lock plunger. - If your doors have a rotary knob to open the triagular window, DON'T pry off the cover inside the wheel. There is a small hole BEHIND the knob. Stick a bent wire in that hole (piece of coat hanger?) and pop out the cover from the inside. - The cap at the driver's elbow prys off, CAREFULLY. There are like 4 clips on the underside. They break off with too much force. - Same rules apply to the skin. Now that you have a naked door, You'll find that the lock handle connects to a little valve that has lots of vacuum lines. Or at least it's supposed to. Sometimes the valve gets screwed up. Sometimes it's just a massive leak in the lock mechanisms in one or more doors. Figure out which line is the vacuum source, and which lines represent problems. You might have to take other doors apart and don't forget the door for the gas fill. Under no circumstances buy the Haynes manuals, they are NOT going to help you one bit with this car. The 108 sel is an incredibly sexy car. Enjoy it. -CTH |
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