Engine Stand Types For M180 (220Sb) - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

wbain5280 · #1 09-19-2007, 11:17 AM

I'm rebuilding my 220Sb engine, M180.941, and I have a 1000 lb Harbor Freight engine stand. I'm having problems bolting the block to the stand and right now, I've got the oil pan on, the bellhousing adapter plate off and the engine bolted to the stand using the upper mounting holes and the lower oil pan holes (using the little diagonal arms on the oil pan).

For you rebuilders out there, how do you mount your engines to stands or what make of engine stand do you use?

bwostosh · #2 09-19-2007, 12:24 PM

Warren,
How is that machining class going?
(I have three motors in rebuild)

Use the top and bottom holes on the block itself,
I have both types of cheapo motor stands, three and four wheels.
The three wheel is too shaky to use as this motor gets very top-heavy when complete, scary to move on anything but smooth concrete,
Yeah, I dropped one over once, slowly, no damage except having to ask for help needed to right it.
I use the three wheel for a short block assembly,
Once the adapter, flywheel and pan go on, it's on the four wheeler.

Also I've totally cleaned my garage (two solid weeks) and found the parts to complete those (4)wood garnish rails for a fin tail sedan, Do you need other wood also? (I have a good set of carburetors for your car also.)

Brian O

wbain5280 · #3 09-19-2007, 01:23 PM

I'm just starting the class. I'm trying to use the top and bottom block holes but the mounting arms don't line up.

Last night I took off the oil filter, water pump assembly, distibutor mount and cyl. 1 finger followers and keeper springs. I have the valve adjustment special tool so that's not problem.

I have to dismount the engine to do any work.

What kind of engine stand do you use? If you have an engine mounted would you please take a pic and post it? I have some I'll take. I'm going there tonight to move the engine to a storage shed.

WANT '71 280SEL · #4 09-19-2007, 04:07 PM

From what I've always seen on engine stands the mounting arms can be loosened then adjusted. So loosen the bolts that hold the mounting arms and swing them where you need them then attach them to the holes you want. Also, I assume your engine stand is a 2-piece? If so, get the top part (that actually attaches to the engine block) off of the bottom and attach it to the block. Then put the two parts of the stand back together. If that still doesn't help you may want to post a pic of the stand or a link to the unit and we'll see what we can do.

Thanks
David

WANT '71 280SEL · #5 09-19-2007, 04:09 PM

I reread your two posts and don't understand what you're having problems with? Is the engine just leaning down as if it might be too heavy for the stand or do you just not trust the way you have it bolted up?

Thanks
David

wbain5280 · #6 09-20-2007, 04:34 PM

Observe

Mike D · #7 09-20-2007, 05:27 PM

Yikes! That is a scary looking set-up. The weight is all above the center of gravity for the engine. Can you flip the extender arms over to bring the center rotating shaft more in line with the cylinder head and block junction (where the head gasket is)?

I bet that mess really wants to spin cylinder head down!

senorunimog · #8 09-26-2007, 05:15 PM

When I rebuilt the my last motor the machine shop said they use the studs for the aluminum mounting arm. We made an adapter out of a steel plate, a pipe and a few big nuts as spacers. I felt much safer with the motor mounted this way, vs the last motor, which I rebuilt in the same manner you are. We have the smaller Harbor Freight stand. My dad lives about 45 mins North of Brian - If you want I'm sure he would lend you the bracket.

-Eric

wbain5280 · #9 09-27-2007, 08:37 AM

What a great idea for mounting the engine. That looks like a M129 or M130 block.

In my last class Tuesday night, I was able to mount the engine at the rear. I drilled a 1/2" hole in two of the mounting arms and used two short sections of pipe to replace the other two mounting arms. Now, the block is properly attached and I can get the oil pan off. I removed the finger followers and anti-rattle springs. Now to pull the head and remove the valves and valve springs. I may go in on Friday night and do that, to catch up.