Well like I said installed the modulator. No harsh shifts at 40 mph. Now I have fast shifts 1st and a slipping into second and lastly third. I believe that the modulator valve can be adjusted by turning half the valve counter clockwise, or clockwise.
I also believe that changing trans fluid might also help. Which is what I am going to do next.
If you are changing the modulator valve make sure you keep track of the crush washers (banjo fitting gaskets, brake line to caliper). Also you will have to take the spring out of the old modulator and put into the new. And I am not sure if there were anything else to keep track of?
I will post on the outcome of the trans gasket and fluid change.
Pococke

I have the Mercedes 114/115 Chassis shop manual and my problems increasingly (at least to me) appear to be vacuum related. But I have pulled the modulator and it looks fine and the shop manual clearly indicates that the new modulator valves are to be installed WITHOUT the spring (modified design). So when I replaced my modulator valve several years ago, I discarded the old spring and it shifted fine - until now.

The troubleshooting section in the manual describe my symptoms almost perfectly - it slips when I accelerate - under load - in any gear. I really don't have problems shifting if I accelerate steadily, but when I give it gas to accelerate rapidly, tranny seems to slip, rpm's increase. I can get the car into 4th gear easily, just by letting up some on the pedal - and then it shifts fine around 40 mph. If I hit the gas then and try to speed up quickly, the rpms increase and car doesn't seem to want to go. After I get up to a certaiin speed (around 55 mph) and let off the pedal some, car accelerates normally to 65-70, and then runs fine.

I know it sounds like a linkage problem and I have already studied that section in the shop manual, and have tried some adjustments, etc (And Thanks Munich for the diagram), but I can't figure it out!

ryan

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RG Newell

1984 300D
1972 250
1986 560SL
1991 300CE

Another member said he fixed his tranny by removing the valve body, and replacing somes seals (o-rings?)
So, I posted the thread below.
Apparently, removing the valve body is not a DIY project.

Anyone removed a tranny valve body?

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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old