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  #1  
Old 11-17-2007, 02:35 PM
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A tale of two condensers

I finally got the '64 SEb coupe running again, after replacing plugs, points, rotor, distributor cap and condenser. I set the gap to perfection, I thought, but the darn thing wouldn't start. After checking, rechecking, and resetting the gap many times without success, I was stumped. It just wouldn't fire up.

Then I replaced the new Bosch condenser (made of some tinny brasslike metal with a thin green wire)

with the old Bosch condenser (made of a nickel like material with a heavy gauge black wire)

and the thing fired right up, and idled really smooth.

The kicker is that both condensers bear the same part number.

Lest you think that the new condenser was a defective fluke, I ordered another one (same part number) and put it in. Same issue--no start. I again replaced it with the old one and it started right up.

I don't know what the moral of this story is other than keep your old parts. Quality apparently has suffered in the intervening 44 years.


Last edited by rusty_parts2001; 11-17-2007 at 08:50 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-17-2007, 06:11 PM
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hmmm.. i was kind of wondering if the old condenser wasn't my issue with not fireing.. might have to figure out something else.
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  #3  
Old 11-18-2007, 05:59 PM
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The bolt that holds the wire has an insulator to keep it from making contact to the distributor body. If that were a problem, you should see 60 degrees of dwell.

On the other hand, if you somehow insulate the wire to the coil from the points, you should see 0 dwell.

The gap measurement is just to give you a good rough sense of the dwell. The easiest way to get the gap right is to use a match book cover. Double it over and you get the "dime" thickness you need.

Remember, every time you touch the points to adjust the gap, that changes the dwell AND the firing point, so you must retime the distributor.

-CTH
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Old 11-18-2007, 08:19 PM
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I had this very same issue and found out I was shorting the new condenser via the connection to the distributor. Once I figured that out she started right up
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Old 11-18-2007, 10:34 PM
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I kind of understand about shorting out the new condenser, although I don't understand why the old one still worked after I replaced it. What was the way you prevented the new one from shorting out?

Last edited by rusty_parts2001; 11-19-2007 at 09:03 AM.
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  #6  
Old 11-19-2007, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cth350 View Post
The bolt that holds the wire has an insulator to keep it from making contact to the distributor body. If that were a problem, you should see 60 degrees of dwell.

On the other hand, if you somehow insulate the wire to the coil from the points, you should see 0 dwell.

The gap measurement is just to give you a good rough sense of the dwell. The easiest way to get the gap right is to use a match book cover. Double it over and you get the "dime" thickness you need.

Remember, every time you touch the points to adjust the gap, that changes the dwell AND the firing point, so you must retime the distributor.

-CTH
but the car ought to start with just gap adjustment, right? it may run rough untill the timing is reset?
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Old 11-19-2007, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty_parts2001 View Post
I kind of understand about shorting out the new condenser, although I don't understand why the old one still worked after I replaced it. What was the way you prevented the new one from shorting out?
the new one had a different connector and that caused the mounting bolt to short out on the body of the distributor.
YOur sure the new condensor is OEM, and matched to the points?
I agree even with really bad setting it should at least start and run crappy.
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2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
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99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
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16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
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Old 11-19-2007, 10:55 PM
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Both old and new condensers bear the same part number. The part number on the old was actually stamped on the top of the condenser. The new one was stamped on the box. Both are Bosch. The parts numbers (for points and condensers) are as specified from the MB Classic Car Center. Connectors are the same kind, although the new one is a thinner gauge wire. I'm stumped too.
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  #9  
Old 11-20-2007, 02:08 PM
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i guess it could be bad, not sure how you could tell
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72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
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  #10  
Old 11-20-2007, 04:28 PM
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anything besides infinite ohms means it's shot.

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