Hey all,
I just bought a 1975 280C for $300 not running. I was able to get the car to start but now it seems that the starter has gone south. I am a novice auto mechanic and am now stuck trying to get the starter off for inspection. I did find the bolt that connected the ground wire but I can not find the second bolt on the top of that starter. Is there a bolt or an allen screw? And which way in the tip facing? I was looking around that there maybe a unique tool for the starter, is this true? Any help would be appreciated. Shawn

Are you sure the starter has gone bad and that this isn't just a situation where the battery cables, or the ground cable from the engine to the body, have loose/corroded/dirty/bad connections? Or, that the battery just isn't bad and failing under the load of cranking?

Since you're a "novice" mechanic (and I'm not putting you down....we were all novice mechanics at some point) my suggestion would be that you think in terms of "Always confirm the customer complaint" and spend some time doing diagnostics.

Start with the most simple solution first and work toward the most complex. In this case, that would be to remove and clean all battery cables and the cable from the engine to the body. Then, since you have the battery disconnected, take it to either a shop or an autoparts store and have them load test the battery.

If you get past these steps, and upon reinstalling the battery, still have a starter that won't crank, or cranks slowly, then you're all set to dig in deeper.......

First you'll check to see that when the key is held in the cranking position, you actually have a full 12v at the ignition wire (small diameter wire) at the starter solenoid. You'll also make sure you have a tight connection where the battery cable attaches to the starter (remove the battery ground cable before putting a wrench on the starter's battery cable nut so you don't accidentally touch the wrench to something and weld the wrench to that something...like your wedding ring, wrist watch, the exhaust pipe, the inner fender, etc.).

If you get through this set of tests, then you can be pretty confident you need to remove the starter and have it rebuilt by a qualified shop. (Don't get sucked into the ol' life-time warranty parts game at your local schlock auto parts place! Have yours rebuilt or spend the money and buy a Bosch rebuild)

Sometimes you can wack a starter or the starter solenoid with a hammer and this will jar them enough to start functioning again. But usually when you come to this point, the starter is on it's way out and you're just buying time.

Sorry, but I can't help you with the specifics of the starter removal in your car. I'm not familiar with it. A good flashlight, and a rag to wipe away the grease and gunk may shed some light on the situation though.

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It takes ~24" of extensions on a rachet wrench. The rachet wrench will be positioned at the rear of the tranny. I believe it is a 8mm hex socket.

BTW, I removed the rear exhaust manifold (& heat shield) for access to the bolt, and the wiring.

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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old

10mm allen key actually.

To extend what MunichTaxi said, the head of the top bolt is reachable from the rear. You can't see it if you try and look from the side of the motor. But, if you go back by the tail of the transmission and look forward, you'll see it. That long extension rod, a universal joint and a 10mm allen key socket will let you remove it.

To amplify Todd's suggestions...

- If turning the key makes "nothing happen" (not even dimming the headlights), then you might not be getting any juice to the starter. That may mean that the neutral-safety switch is doing what it is supposed to do. Put the car in drive and then put it back into park. Then try to start it again.

- If the starter just clicks and nothing else happens, then you might not be getting enough juice to the starter.

Or of course, the starter could be shot.

If you haven't done so yet, invest 20$ in the service CD. Call 1-800-for-merc.

-CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

the 6 year old battery in 3 seconds.

Now, with a rebuilt starter, and the 6 year old battery, engine cranks very well. Almost started in the 1st second, but since the rear exhaust manifold is still off; I had to shut it down.

The pinion gear was very loose on the old starter, let alone the grime and gunk inside. It was good until the 31st year!

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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old

yeah, they just don't last, do they. -CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

starter motor is very strong but it sounds like it is having a hard time ingageing the fly wheel. it grinds and whines and will ingage about every 30 trys. is it a solinoid problem and if so, do i have to remove the starter to fix it? i know the damage it can do to the fly wheel from owning Fords and i dont want the next forum i visit to be about replacing a fly wheel too.