Hi all

The 230/8 re-comission continues. I've got the engine running ok now, and a local carb shop is investigating rebuilding the auto chokes. Now, though, when I press the clutch there is a grating noise, getting worse with increasing pressure. If I persist (only did this once!) the engine revs begin to fall. The clutch pedal is very heavy and doesn't return to rest position without being pulled.

Sounds to me like broken clutch spring, failed release bearing or similar. I'm going to have to tke it apart, aren't I? Any thoughts?

Andrew

Yup, you're going to have to pull it apart. It could be something simple such as rust on the the input bearing retainer housing (the shaft the release bearing slides on)or a rusted release bearing. There is no return spring on a hydraulic clutch. It only has a pedal return/centering spring under the dash.

Have you drained/checked the fluid ( ATF type "F")?

Before tearing it down I would try working it in and out with the engine off. It might free up. The pp and throw out bearing area is not that vulnerable to rust so it could just be thickened lube from sitting. The hydraulics though will definately gum up. I would look carefully at that system and renew as necessary.

Good luck.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Sounds like release bearing. I had the same noise and had to pull it all apart. Don't try to do too much with engine running because you may mess up the pressure plate. Mine was fine, just a small score on it, so it could just be a new bearing.

Good luck,

Bert

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'70 111 280SE/c 3.5 (4 spd manual) - sold
'63 MGB
'73 MGBGT V8

I don't have any taste (or facilities) to take it apart. My local garage have agreed to trailer the car to their shop and take a look. They've always given good service and low rates - just hope they keep it up this time! I'll post any outcome.
Thanks
Andrew

I'm with you Bert. If the noise occurs with your foot on the clutch pedal, I'd say seized release bearing. (The bearing that presses against the pressure plate) If it's only noisy with you foot off the clutch pedal, it's probably the spiggot bearing. (the bearing between the crankshakt and gearbox input shaft)

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Tony
76 W116 280SE
74 W107 450SLC
88 W124 300E
82 W123 280TE

The spigot bearing, aka the pilot bearing, usually makes a screech as the clutch is released. Doesn't really matter; if the noise is coming from inside the bell housing, the trans gotta come off.

Hi everyone

The W114 now has a new clutch kit, release bearing, spigot bearing, slave cylinder and flexihose - everything was just SHOT. Also needed the flywheel skimming. It's all back together now and working well. Remaining problem is with fueling -on a short test drive I had no power and dying engine except at tickover or full power. Sounds like a fuel blockage to me - any other comments?

I am DETERMINED to get this car into regular use.

Regards

Andrew

I am a little unsure what is meant by the description of the problem, but if it makes power under full throttle it sounds more like a carb problem than fuel blockage.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Check for air leaks first. Make sure everything is bolted and hoses to your manifold are not leaking. If your clutch was shot that bad, who knows what previous owners have done on your intake manifold and carbs.

Bert

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'70 111 280SE/c 3.5 (4 spd manual) - sold
'63 MGB
'73 MGBGT V8

Pay real attention to the ignition system on this model. If for example the points are closed up when you press the gas pedal the engine will not accelerate initially then take off a few seconds later. Will run well at higher revs though.

Zenith carbs?? Another rub might be accelerator pumps on each carb need replace. Thats the little piston device with rubber boot alongside carbs, very common they seize up. Ask yer tech if replacing the carb accelerator pumps might help.

Otherwise flushing miniscule passages throughout fuel atomizing Zenith carbs will work themselves clean over road time with carb/injector cleaner additives at each fill-up. Reconnoitre adding clear see-though replacable inline fuel filter too, as particles break lose from possibly rusty fuel tank and threaten to further foul carb network passages. Finally there's pair of tiny little recleanable brass screens within the carbs themselves. We've got the Zenith carb manual archived in stickied links thread at top of this page to help you locate the fiddly bits I'm talkin about. Great to hear of yet another 230/8 returning to daily service on the road.

It would be really neat to see some decent pic's of the car.

- Peter.

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2021 Chevrolet Spark
Formerly...
2000 GMC Sonoma
1981 240D 4spd stick. 347000 miles. Deceased Feb 14 2021
2002 Kia Rio. Worst crap on four wheels
1981 240D 4spd stick. 389000 miles.
1984 123 200
1979 116 280S
1972 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1971 108 280S