I was advised to post here as this may be a tool for a vintage Mercedes.

One of a bunch of Mercedes tools that I bought. It has KMC stamped inside a square diamond shaped box. Has a part number that looks like a Mercedes part number 711 589 01 01 00. Set up for ½ inch drive with the wrench end being 14mm.
Please help me identify this tool. Car model, engine and the what the tool would be used for. I believe it is a tool for a gas engine not diesel.

Ball socket adjuster tool for early IL-6 ..127/129 engines.
M130 engines went to larger 17mm ..same tool , different size

Ori was 111-589-00-01-00 NLA
Want to sell it??????????/

I would like to sell it but I am in the process of trying to find its value.
Take a good look at the number on the side it starts with 711 and the last two 00 are missing. From my internet search of other parts I found that when the last 2 digits were missing it = 00.

Tool makers use different sub #s.. I told you what the ORIGINAL Benz # was .

Thanks.

http://members.aol.com/ajdalton7/14mm.jpg

Many thanks to all the helpful members. Best wishes and Happy Hoildays!

It's basically for adjusting fintail valves. I used to have one until it was stolen by garage mechanic when I left toolbox in the car. With socket end positioned directly over the spanner end it gives accurate torque readings too. Mine was made by Hazet. It's probly worth $50 to somebody who knows what it is.

I have only owned a Mercedes since last Feb; Fintail valves??? I wouldn't mind a year, engine and car model number It was used on.

It is used on all Il-6 OHV engine up to M130..as I previously posted , they then went to 17mm...same tool , just a bigger pin hex head size due to so many 14mm ball heads getting rounded off w/14mm sizing...... the last thing you want to try and replace on these style engines is the ball sockets..they gaul the threads of the aluminum heads right up and then you are in big trouble .
Many try crowsfoot wrenches, but they are not wide enough to do the job correctly and the torque reading is inaccuate due to the geometric alignment of the tool.

What torque reading are you refering to? Isn't the adjusting stud turned until the valve clearance is correct, regardless of torque?

Yes, but you also need to check the torque needed to turn the adjusting nut or bushing or whatever it's called. If it's too low (on my M110 too low is less than 20 ft lbs) it needs to be replaced.

__________________
kalpol
79 280SE
82 Fiat Spider 2000
81 Fiat Brava
04 BMW R1150RT
96 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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The torque spec for these is engine specific, but most are 14.5 to 25 ft/lbs.
The torgue reading is not a torque tightening spec [ as with a bolt spec] , but rather a rotational torque minimum. Not maximum . If the ball studs require less than the torque spec to turn/rotate during adjustment, then they are in need of replacement. This is to insure they do not loosen up in use. This is a self locking/friction desisgn thread system.
As you know from working on these , it is usually the case that these are always way over min lock/torque requirements. but I have seen some fail the min test.
The threads on the ball pins are actually cut a slightly different pitch than the stud they screw into. This is a common self-locking thread design seen in some machinery that do not utilize lock/jam nut designs [ aircraft/etc]
Todays versions would be nylock nut/thread systems.
Torque measures would be the same as bearing pre-load torque rotational force specs, not torque bolt tightening [ as head bolts.etc....]
Different measure . Rotation drag force compared to clamping force ..Apples/Oranges

Here is some better pics to show that the tool is still in good shape. I am open to an offer if anyone is interested to buy it. If not I will most likely end up on Ebay after the Christmas holidays are over.

Yes, it looks to be in good condition.
Your first photo made it look a bit rounded/gauled out a bit on top of the 14mm , [ Post #1 ] ,but it looks fine in those shots. Did you clean it up a bit ???
The 14mm measure has to be perfect b/c they can be a bummer
if they slip. That is why the tool is so thick and even with a good tool , they would round ..so, they went to the larger 17mm size from the factory starting w/M130 to solve the problem.
Nice tool.............

I have this one too ...but the one I always use and by far the best one is one I made and sent out to get hardened.

http://www.samstagsales.com/images/hz2768-1.jpg