Hi,

Can someone forward me the shop procedure for adjusting the bosch mechanical voltage regulator? i had the generator rebuilt, it's putting out 13.6 v at 3000rpm.

The points are clean inside the regulator, i just need the specs and procedure to set the point gaps on all 3 solenoids. they are all working, but still battery is not charging.

a wiring diagram might help me also, if someone has one.

i probably should have just put in an internally regulated alternator.

Car is a 1964 220SEb sedan.

Thanks!!!

Josef
LA,CA

The replacement regulator is Electronic and they work fine, but many do go to the internal alt b/c that also gets them a higher amp charging system at the same time. [ 35/55A]
They also do the same on the Starter..they go with the later 1.8HP starter [ from .8] with the 3 contact solinoid. That not only gets you a stronger starter crank speed, but with the solinoid, you can then also bring Ignition Ballast Resistor by-pass wire to ignition for crank..between these two , the car will start in 1/2 a spin...
Both short $$$ modifications that doesn't take away from the car.

thats a great idea about the starter. I use the car daily so any driveability upgrades are much appreciated.

By .8 do you mean a 108 or a 114/115 body car? what should i look for in the junkyard?

then, run a wire to coil + from the starter solenoid contact, the one energized when the starter is running only, correct?

i am not very familiar with generators. Is 13.6v enough to charge the battery? Alternators put out 14.7 and much more at full field (hence need for VR) but this generator will only climb up to 13.6.

thanks in advance,

j

<
then, run a wire to coil + from the starter solenoid contact, the one energized when the starter is running only, correct>>

The .8 is the starter HP torque rating...it is stamped right into the field casing. If one were to order a new starter for your car, you would automatically get the later 1.5 HP starter. So, if you go to a Junker, the best bet is to look at the starter from the donor b/c in all likelyhood it does not have the original starter anyway. You can make this observation simply by looking at the starter ..the new style [ 1.5] will have a much smaller size to the case..very evident...smaller, but much more torque.
On the by-pass , you simple use contact 16 and run that wire over to the dist sde of the Ballast..that gives one a full bat voltage at crank, which usually results in approx 10/11 volts due to starter draw demand. Once starter solinoid releases that extra contact set, your ignition will go back to stock spec. A very smart modification . Most all Benz chassis from 1969 and up have the starter by-pass.
If you want to really get on it, dump the points and go Pertronix Hall Effect module or Crane Optical switching point conversion and be done with it.
That is the best $$$$ value mod that can be made to these point cars. The results are very impressive and you wind up with a rock steady ignition timing..[ impossible w/points]..most effective if one has MFI engine..run better than when they were new , and I was working on these when they were new...

Thanks. I am going to the junkyard now to find an internal reg. alternator. I already have the pertronix on order, I put one in all my point cars, I agree with you, night and day difference, especially if you use the high voltage coil they make.

I am so impressed with the bosch MFI system, pretty sophisticated for such an early system. I'm glad I waited for a nice 220SE instead of buying a carb. car.

thanks again,
j

The starting, charging, ignition, wiring is mid 60's Delco-Remy, (general motors) the delco regulator (cheap) bolts into the position of the Bosch unit(expensive).Just invert the position of the two outer terminals of the box. I've had very good luck with those generators/regulators, and the Crane optical pick-up unit, The Pertronics are well recommended also.
220 SE with MFI is a great motor.

Was wondering about the Delco regulator as that's what my '60 Fintail came with when I got the car 6 years ago. It seems to work just fine.

As to the original post, If you're getting 13.6 volts max, at the battery with the engine running, then the generator is charging, but it's weak. My factory service manual gives a range of 13.8 to 14.8 volts, read after increasing engine speed until the voltage stops rising.
I have seen adjustment procedures for some mechanical voltage regulators but my manual says not with the Bosch.
Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

I have the adjustment proceedure in my old repair manuals. I've re-adjusted Bosch regulators on old Porsches to charge the 8V battery that was swapped in to replace the anemic 6V. If you decide to keep what you have, which seems to be *almost* working, I'll dig out the manual.

Can you post the adjustment procedure for the thee-element Bosch regulator? I have an old Stockel auto repair manual that shows adjustments for different types of American voltage regulators, but neither my Ponton or Fintail factory manuals provide any adjustment information for the Bosch regulators. In fact, both manuals state emphatically that replacement is the only option for a malfunctioning regulator.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

I've scanned the pages detailing how to adjust the voltage regulator. They are too large to post, at least by my abilities. I can send them by e-mail if you wish.
I just checked my repair manual and I have a wiring diagram for a 220S, which is close to your 220SEb.