Vibration getting worse - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Scutch · #16 12-16-2007, 02:33 PM

Yes I do have manuals, and have separated the exhaust from the header pipes.

By rings, are you talking about the 3 bolt triangular rings that tighten that fitting together?

I ask because those are steel, and I am surprised that replacing them will help seal the exhaust. Everytime I reconnect the header pipes to the exhaust manifold there is a leak. Very annoying, but I never thought replacing those metal rings wouldn't change anything unless they were serverely warped.

I finally got those two pipes together without a leak so the thought of taking them apart again doesn't exicte me.

Wait. How can you replace them? I don't even think you can get them off the header pipe without a torch and hammer, because of that lip at the end of the pipe.

Still confused. Is there no way to do the flex disk and center bearing without removing the exhaust?

twinockchef · #17 12-16-2007, 03:43 PM

The rings fit around the exhaust pipe part that fits into the manifold. The three bolts when tighten press the ring(it is a soft metal) which seals the connection between the two pipes. I had a leak and after I put the new seal ring on it was fixed. To do any drive shaft work it is best to pull exhaust off.

truckinik · #18 12-17-2007, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinockchef

The intermediate bearing and bushing are in the middle of the drive shaft. It is the connection between the two shafts. To get to it you have to remove the exhaust pipes and the only way to remove them is to raise the car up five feet. Before your raise the car remove the bolts that connect the pipes to the exhaust manifold. You can clean the bolts and nuts or just replace with stainless steel. There is a ring seal that goes in at this connection. Use a new rings. Without it you will have exhaust fumes leaking out and into the car.
Do you have a Mercedes repair manuel for your car? It explains everything quite well.

Oh yes, that reminds me...Does anyone have a manual for a 560 sec..?

300SDog · #19 12-17-2007, 08:50 PM

To keep it simple, I'd stick with the rubbers for now instead of dropping the shaft. Am not even sure the w111 has center support bearing and U-joint problems are uncommon. On earlier models the U-joint was actually part of the driveshaft. There's 2 grease fittings on the driveshaft: one about halfway down and another at the U-joint. Meanwhile if that "raggedy anne head" flexdisc ever lets go there will be hell to pay. Heard of it wrapping the emergency brake cable, dropping and sticking the road.

Scutch · #20 12-18-2007, 12:55 PM

I have been looking this up on this forum, but never know if advice on one model works for my own. Can you replace the flex disc without dropping the exhaust on a 1968 230s?
I have the two part drive shaft with only one flex disc. It is an automatic.

Below are torque specs I found on another post for a 1983 240 D, I think. Does this sound correct? Should locktite be used.

"M-B calls for replacing the nuts on the flex disc by saying: "Renew self-locking hex nuts on principle." If the self-locking nuts are in good condition then I would use some blue Locktite on them and torque them to the correct spec (45 Nm or 33.3 ft. lbs. or 400 in. lbs.). I used blue Locktite on the old self-locking nuts for my flex disc and no problems so far."

Eddie

300SDog · #21 12-20-2007, 12:27 AM

There's also a front and back to the flexdisc, question of aligning the holes. Your read em by writing thats on one side. Good news is flex disc replacement makes the tranny mount easy. Paint mark position of old mount on the rail. Years ago I did em both without dropping the muffler pipe. Jack the rear wheels to rotate the shaft. Yours might be first generation of 2 part jointed drive shaft.

truckinik · #22 12-20-2007, 01:04 AM

Yes, use the rubbers. If you don't your car can end up with a twisted shaft, and crab walk. Crabs are not fun. Look at what they did to Raggedy Anne. Use Rubbers, reduce chance of Crab...

Scutch · #23 12-20-2007, 12:22 PM

Does anyone know the proper torque specs for the flex disc for a '68 230s? Is locktite recommended?

twinockchef · #24 12-21-2007, 12:18 AM

As best as I can tell the tightening torque of the flex bolts is 14 to 15 mkp. I believe the conversion is 7.233 per lb. which is 101.26 to 108.49. This is for a 108 chassis. I hope that this will help.

Scutch · #25 12-21-2007, 07:10 PM

Getting the flex disc has become a bit of a hassle. The dealer says the part number I need is 1894110115. For some reason this has to come from Germany for $80. Why can't I use one of the easily available aftermarket discs for my '68 230s like everyone else seems to? The ones I ordered from *************** had holes that were off 1/4 inch.

I got the impression from forum talk that they were kind of generic. I ass u me d.

twinockchef · #26 12-21-2007, 08:12 PM

It is a fine line between aftermarket and original parts. Price is one concern but so is quality. It’s one thing to use an aftermarket air intake hose and a flex disk. It the hose fails the car won't crash as opposed to a flex disk failing. I always hate it when I have to wait ten days for something from Germany. Most of their prices (with club discount) can be reasonable. I agree that the prices are crazy at times.
Good Luck

Scutch · #27 12-22-2007, 12:14 AM

Britton,
What about the club discount. How much to join the club? Is it worth it to you? Aside from your opinion, could you give me a link so I could do a little investigation.

Thanks

twinockchef · #28 12-22-2007, 02:27 AM

It's mbca.org. I think its $40 a year. Here is an example of a discount at Park Place Dallas. I needed to replace the torsion bar bushings. Retail was $250. I paid $145. At Classic Mercedes the price is $175. The first ten days of each month part prices are wholesale at the dealership. The membership has more than paid for itself. Check the deals that your local dealerships offer.

Good luck

Bama1 · #29 12-29-2007, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scutch

Getting the flex disc has become a bit of a hassle. The dealer says the part number I need is 1894110115. For some reason this has to come from Germany for $80. Why can't I use one of the easily available aftermarket discs for my '68 230s like everyone else seems to? The ones I ordered from *************** had holes that were off 1/4 inch.

I got the impression from forum talk that they were kind of generic. I ass u me d.

Have you tried the Parts Link at the MercedesShop home page?

Scutch · #30 02-13-2008, 04:36 PM

TODDS

driveshaft vibration

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I'm curious as to how you made out with this issue. My 67 230S auto is suddenly having the exact same symptoms; worse on highway and heavy accel, still existent coasting in neutral at high speed, slow oscillation like jet taking off. Did you ever figure the cheapest path to replacement parts? Did you drop the exhaust? I believe I have a discount code for club membership so maybe that would be useful at this point. It seems like the kind of thing that would warrant replacing sooner rather than later due to safety concerns, esp taking into account the high-revving nature of our cars. (not to mention the fact that it drives ya crazy!)

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Is it Todd?

It seems I have two problems. I started with the oscillating vibration that seemed to all of a sudden over a week get much worse. When I checked the flex disk is was badly worn. I replaced that with a flex disc that could only be gotten from Germany part number 189 411 0115. I don't know why my car needed a special order flex disc but it did. My mechanic tried to order that part based on my year and model. This was a mistake. He went through two discs that did not fit. After calling the dealer he got the above part number. I highly recommend talking to the dealer. The part only ended being about $70 from Germany, but took about 7 days.

The good news was that it fixed the sound and vibration that was quickly worsening. The bad news is that I still have the original low oscillating sound that I had before. There were two different vibrations. It is still something else. I suspect maybe that center drive shaft bearing. Maybe the transmission mounts? But my intuition tells me it is something that is directly related to the speed of that driveshaft. I am waiting until it gets warmer.

My mechanic did not have to drop the muffler. It was very easy to replace the flex disc.

Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Eddie

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The above was an offline exchange.

Question for the message board: I looked at the u-joint and that center driveshaft bearing and they both seem to be very solid. The rubber looks good on the bearing. Any ideas on what could most likely be causing that annoying vibration that is not the flex disc? This vibration is not affected by acceleration or coasting. It seems to occur more at higher speeds.

Thanks
Eddie