I'm thinking of buying a 67 200D but I need to know if it's a bad idea to use this car as a daily driver. I need something that will get me back and forth to school without too many problems. Also friends and family that I have talked to about it rant about how it's a terrible idea and it will be sooo hard to get parts for should I need them. None of them have ever owned any kind of mercedes so I figured I'd ask you guys how true that is. Anyways, the one I found has 88000 miles on it and when I asked for more details on the condition and rust he said "Very small amount of rust. Amazing shape considering it's 41 years old. All of the body panels line up perfectly. I need to install the correct radio I just found and the starter brushes should be cleaned. That's it. Great car. I'll see what I can do about more pictures."

I'd be grateful for any info and opinions you guys may have.

Thanks,
Matt

I believe those cars have only 5 digit odometers, so the milage could also be 188k, 288k, etc. But if she starts up easy on a cold morning. The milage isn't too much of a worry. Parts are harder to come by than the 123. I find that anything pre w123 is harder to find parts for. But with the folks here you should have too much trouble, you may just have to be patient at time for parts. You aren't going to be goind 65 on the highway with it either, 55 it about all your gonna get out of it.

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Bio, do you have actual ownership experience with a 200d? 55 seems pessemistic for a cruising speed. I would think 65 should be possible, but I don't have 200d experience, just 190c experience.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I have a friend with one. I've driven it a few times, but I admit I haven't taken it on the highway. But it didn't seems like it would be good to be going that fast in the car. My 78 240 is happeist right about 62, 65 and she starts to rev kind of high.

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the w110 will get you back and forth ,don`t worry...for the parts-they are stiil available on many on-line parts sites...the steering,suspension
Suspension failure and rebuild
is (almost) identical to w108/109/111,the engine is not quite different from early om615/616(w115),they have the same oil filter setup...things like engine mounts,filters,clutch disks,clutch and brake hydraulics,brake parts,gaskets etc.are easy to find and prices are almost identical to those of later models.
Well,timing chain(1 link longer),chain tensioner,prechambers for example you have to buy from the dealer....

These models can be very reliable if kept up, but if not you may be in for a lot of repair bills. The front suspension can be a big problem, as they use threaded pivot points, and if these were not greased properly (lot of zerks on the car) can lock up and require replacement of parts. If they have been greased properly, then they are likely in good shape. These are not speedy cars, 0 to 60 mph in 30 seconds, top speed around 80 (but not recommended). They cruise well at 55 to 60, maybe even 65, and are very stable but would not recommend any faster for a long term cruise just because the motor is wound up pretty tight. You must think first before attempting any manouver, especially passing, as pickup is far from spectactular. They are a heavy car, so not real agile. If you live in a cold climate, they can be very hard to start under 32 degees F unless they have an engine block heater. On the plus side they do drive well, have great steering (without power steering), and ride smooth. And the manual transmission is the preference, as the automatics are real dogs from what I've heard.

When he said a small amount of rust, better look closer. I've heard that one before. These cars were prone to rust in about every area, including floorboards, rocker panels, wheel arches, and fenders. The factory undercoating tended to trap dirt and propogate rust. And the mileage being only 88,000 is possible but not probable. These were the bargain basement economical models and tended to get driven many miles. But the overall condition of the body and drivetrain is more important than the miles. Body parts are getting hard to get, but most mechanical parts are available aftermarket or through Mercedes.

As for the correct radio, forget about it unless you are going for a perfect restoration. The original radios were non-stereo AM or AM/FM. Put in a nice aftermarket if you buy the car.

That said, my summer daily driver is a 200D and I enjoy driving it. There's not a large collector base for these models, but you don't see them much any more either. Take the car for a test drive before you even consider buying it to see if it fits your personality. If it does not have enough power for you, then your decision is made and you should step up to a different or newer model. They are very simple cars and fairly easy to work on.

Hope this info helps.

Thanks for your help so far guys. I talked to the guy and asked if he could send me more photos and also asked about his experience in getting parts for the car and this is what he said..."I'll get some more photos today. I've replaced the rear brakes and hoses, master cylinder, water pump, record the radiator, belts, battery, alternator, motor mounts, steering shock & the oil pan gasket. Parts haven't been a problem. Mercedes Benz still makes parts for a 41 year old car! And the internet get me parts within 3 or 4 days." It sounds to me like he's been taking pretty good care of it.

As for the radio, yeah I never really asked about that. He just mentioned it. I assume he took out the stock and put in a better one and now that he's selling it, he wants to keep the good radio. That's fine though. I have a pretty good pioneer to throw in it.

You'll have to cut up the dash for that most likely. You can find PLENTY of perfectly fine beckers on ebay that would be original. You can even plug an ipod into the back of them if you have the right plug adapter.

That said... a newer stereo would sound better.

I think the original radio in my 67 is possessed. My girlfriend is convinced it's haunted. It seems to listen in to your conversation and play music appropriately, it's eerie! I suppose it makes sense, the car's from Salem, MA originally.

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1967 230S automatic
Boston, MA

That sounds pretty amazing, haha. Maybe I'll just leave the original one in there, haha.

Thats a pretty good list he's fixed already. I agree it sounds like previous owner knows what he's doing. But ask about the injector pump too. It was achilles heal on primitive diesels - early version bosch pumps having weak seals and bearings.

Rare, hard to find parts include rear drum hydraulic pistons, clutch pressure plate (5 versions on 110's), column shift bushings and headlight chrome rings. Heck, you can throw any radio you want in that car without ripping up the dash. Its got NO center console so hang anything you like mounted to hang underneath. And the only fatal rust on 110/111's occurs behind headlights. Otherwise you want to know engine compression before buying the car. Oil consumption at 600-800 miles per quart is normal. Try and learn history of the car - how long undriven etc.

Otherwise my advice is definitely DRIVE IT EVERYDAY WITHOUT FEAR assuming the injector pump and compression checks out. Compression will help tell you condition of rings, pitted bores etc from sitting undriven. But I'd reconnoitre at least an hour test drive on highway and normal town roads to make sure it fits yer needs. Thats the ultimate 'special interest' vehicle you understand.


(edit: and the fact he mentions new $35 steering shock could indicate it needs suspension work.

As noted, the opening in the dash is slightly smaller than more modern radios. Heck, many did not even have a radio as it was optional, just a blank plate over the hole. When I put a radio in mine many years ago, I was able to find an aftermarket radio that fit the hole with a little looking in the JC Whitney catalog. Not sure about today.

The rubber shifter bushings are another good point. They should still be available from Mercedes and tend to fall apart with age. If the shifter is loose, then this is most likely the cause, and is not a big deal. There is also a rubber bushing at the base of the handle itself that falls apart.

I personally have never had any injection pump problems, but if you had to get one fixed, my guess would be anywhere from $500 to $1000. And those steering shocks, I've replaced more than one and it seems like every Mercedes I've bought or seen in a junkyard needed one. I don't know if they are just not made good or if nobody ever replaces them. Another area that gives problems if the car sits for a while, in my experience, is the hydraulic clutch. If the pedal goes to the floor and will not come up, it is likely out of fluid, has air in the system, has a leaky slave cylinder, or all three. Not extemely expensive to fix, but more a PITA.

I hope I don't offend 300SDog, but these models can have fatal rust in the unibody and I have seen it personally. Of course this is a worst case and you will notice a lot of rust elsewhere before the structure fails completely. Floorboards rusting out is not uncommon. Check under the floor mats, which I guess applies to all vintage Mercedes. Other common areas are the bottom of the doors and the front bumper mount.

As 300SDog said, test drive it before you buy.

The major rust in my 200D was at the front bumper mounts , very bad , also front floors and jacking points , it was not very bad to look at untill I poked it with a screwdriver , LOL . Nothing under the paint!

Very economical and very slow accelerating , change the oil regular and drive it with yer foot on the floor.

My car was retired at 367,000 due to terminal rust. I was very disappointed , but that was the way it was then.

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'72 240D
'76 300D
'88 300sel
'40 Chev pickup , the shop hack.
'73 Monte Carlo Landau, for "Super Chevy Sunday"

Aahh,if only they had the anticorrosion protection back then...never seen a finback with a sound front bumper mount frame
Has she got a sliding roof?
Once again,most of the parts are still available,MB still produces hm,99% of the car parts in case you have problems finding any... some parts are still used 20 years later in other models (the steering shock is used on w126 ) ,connecting rods(up to 1985-om615/616/617),you can throw in a valve train(except for the chain ) from an om616 if needed...you can sleeve the block,or install a w115 220D engine,if you want..
Here`s how the clutch setup is like:
http://www.mbzponton.org/valueadded/maintenance/clutch/clutch_replace2.htm
http://www.mbzponton.org/valueadded/maintenance/clutch/clutch_replace3.htm

Note how easily it starts from stone-cold, and also the oil-pressure guage after it's warmed up. 10 - 15 hot-idle psi might not be unusual, especially if it's got some thin oil, but pressure should max out quickly while accelerating.
The factory gives the Fintail 200D a top speed of 81, so if it's healthy, 65 shouldn't be a problem, though the 0 - 60 of around 30 seconds might be. I prefer a stick-shift with any Fintail.

I'd avoid buying anything with extensive body cancer, but once the rust extends to the front subframe mount and rear-axle trailing arm areas, then it's terminal.

Many aftermarket radios will fit through the dash opening. It's the faceplates that are usually the problem, as most are too tall to fit flush without riding against the dash ridge above the opening and the chrome molding below. But unless you want a built-in CD, or audio power suffcient blow out windows, it's hard to beat a good working vintage AM-FM Becker or Blaupunkt in these cars. And a bonus if you can find one of these radios with shortwave. Get one of those RF adapters if you want to play CDs or an I-Pod. If it's still in good shape, the factory mono dash speaker can actually sound better than some stereo installations.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Off-topic:
Some restauration work on fintail and w115 models:
http://www.rolf-heinrichs.com/Privates/Auto/auto-eingang.htm
http://www.s-klasse-schmiede.de/Restaurationen/__W_111/__w_111.html
http://www.dembski-minssen.de/ricklef/mercedes/Restauration/index.html
Never seen such thing before:


The infamous front bumper frame: