I looked in DIY articles and links, purused several threads in Search and unless I missed something, the replacement of the motor mounts for the M130 (6 cyl) in our '68 280 SE is perhaps so elementary that no description is necessary, or else is buried too deeply to easily find!

In the course of replacing a broken control arm, I have decided to replace, among other things, the motor mounts. They were ordered several days ago so I expect them soon.

I am thinking at this point to suspend the car on the side rails, then raise the engine slightly, after removing the two screws(one per mount) that hold the mounts to the engine mount suports, probably with a single jack from underneath (with some kind of obstruction avoiding adapter) and change out the mounts. I am also removing the whole control arm assemblies on both sides for servicing and replacing the subframe mounts at the same time.

I have to wonder if the engine will even lift up with the removal of just those two bolts. Are there other bolts holding the engine in place I need to remove or loosen? I made the topic name easy to Search for, so I hope some useful information will soon be posted where others can easily find it later (and I can use right away)!

Thanks in advance,

Basil

Replace one mount at a time. Lift up the engine, use a piece of wood between the jack and the oil pan, and replace one. Align the holes and mount one of the mounts. Then lower the engine down and use a drift or a large screwdriver, to align the large bolt hole. Tighten the large bolt and do the other side. Be careful not to cross thread the small bolts.

It's pretty easy the only problem being the harder rubber and the main bolt alignment.

You should also repalce the trans mount while you're at it.

Then the flex discs on the driveshaft need to be checked for cracks. If there are any, replace them too.

Check the M100 board for some good info on flex discs.

http://www.m-100.cc/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=4

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=108018&M=130%2E980&CT=F&cat=232&SID=24&SGR=001&SGN=01

Which type of engine mounting does your model use? To some point all the vehicles from that era used a plate an a ruber buffer beneath the rubber mounting...the buffer has to be pretensioned to a given level by the bolt and one installs the mount-plate-buffer-bolt setup...same thing with the rear engne mounting-the bolt that screws in the niddle of the mounting from top should protrude to a given distance,measured at the counternut below....I did a search in the EPC,trying to find out when/whether the MB discarded this feature(which should increase longevity IMHO of the mountings),and found only controversial info...many people just don`t bother installing the plate-buffer-bolt,the EPC still list `em as valid...so please Mr.Basil,if you happen to have the setup on the first graph and find any plates on your car,let me know....
Mr.Bain decribed the exact procedure,start with the front(engine mounts)first. The manual suggests marking the position of the transmission support plate to the chassis floor when doing the rear one...
Good luck!

The bumper under the mount goes only on the drivers side to prevent "lifting" stress on the mount. The passenger side sees only compression. Put it in if it is there, use the old parts. When you do the transmission mount, do it last, leave the cross mount loose, lower the car onto the wheels, then tighten the trans cross mounts' 4 screws. The factory even recommends to loosen the drive shaft spline nut for these parts to all "settle" into position. Makes sense to me and it works well to do. They even recommend to loosen that cross mount when adjusting the front caster. These cars truly are different than most, requiring different procedures to be correct.