|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
1972 280SEL, couple questions plz
Hello everyone. I recently bought the aforementioned car and overall am very pleased with the purchase. I've had a few MBs before, but none this old.
I am having a bit of a problem, so far, locating service manuals for this specific model (Chass:108.068 Eng:117.984) Can anyone suggest the best resource for materials such as maybe a factory service manual or something along those lines? Also, the car ran beautifully when I got it home, and although I haven't been driving it (needs minor brake work) it has continued to start and purr everyday that I have toyed with it. Yesterday, I was moving the car in the driveway and, while in reverse I depressed the brake pedal and the car immediately stopped. No sputter, no gradual loss of power, just a total stall. I could not get the car started again after that. I am still getting great spark so I believe it is some sort of fuel issue. The problem is that I have no reference as to where to check fuel delivery. I have found that the fuel pump does have a relay, but I do not know the location of the relay. All of the fuses in the cabin appear good but none of them are relative anyway. Thanks for taking the time to read my post, any information as far as reference material or hopefully a solution to my other issue is greatly appreciated. Last edited by tecrekka; 02-12-2008 at 08:39 AM. Reason: added specific Engine/Chassis info |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Congratulations!
Here`s some technical literature: http://www.classictechlit.mbusa.com/MB/ those CD-R were 135$$ some time ago...now 20$$...and free EPC online.... |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
That would be the brake booster leaking vacuum. replace with used.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks to both of you!
bwostosh- would that continue to make it not start, or should that only effect it while it is running? Could it be simply a leak? I don't think it is as everything under the hood looks really good, just and idea. Again, thank you both. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
I don't think that it is a brake booster. May not have any relation to the pressing of the brake pedal, just a coincidence. Check fuel by spraying starting fluid into intake. That will rule out fuel and possibly vac. loss problems.
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
I had a similiar thing happen. Car would not even sputter while cranking despite good spark. Ran for 30 secs with starter fluid. Turned out the electrical connection to the pressure sensor was loose. Jiggle it around.
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Blue - Good call, I didnt even think about that.
Bill - well, if the starter fluid attempt isnt successful, where is that?? lol Thanks you guys. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Well, tried starter fluid and it did pop off and try to go, just as smooth as ever, but only for a second. Should I be looking for the relay now maybe? I just have a feeling it has to be electircal, but maybe that is just from years of Jaguar experience....
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
The thing in common with the break pedal (hah!) and the fuel delivery is the wire harness to the rear. But even so, that could just be a red herring.
When you turn the key, you should hear the fuel pump start to run. If not, check the fuses. Aside from the long thin fuse panel by the driver's knee, there are a couple of small bakalite boxes under the hood with a few extra fuses in them. Two common diagnostic tricks on these cars are: - Hit the fuel pump with a hammer to see if that "fixes" it. - Rotate the fuses a turn or two as the contacts on the end can corrode. -CTH -CTH |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Haha! Oh, to be working on old cars again! I'll check tomorrow and see if I hear the pump start, it is in the back correct? I still haven't gotten a manual, although I did order one from MB (thanks again Vox).
I figured there had to be more fuses under the hood (do Germans say "bonnet" too, lol?) but wasn't able to locate them with a cursory search. I will look more closely at that tomorrow as well. Thanks a ton for taking the time to help my out. |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
The down side to fixing a car on the internet is I miss the feel of the grease on my fingers.
The pump is on the driver's side right behind the rear wheel. -CTH |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Before hitting the pump with a hammer:
Check your battery's (+) terminal. There's a 2nd small wire on it. Make sure it's clean and making good contact. This powers the fuel pump (I have to view a schematic but I believe the entire D-Jet fuel system too). This tip has saved many 3.5 and 4.5 owners a few hours of time.
__________________
Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Yes, I like to exhaust any other possibilites before resorting to the hammer, but I do understand that sometime it just has to be done!
Just got news that my Jaguar collection is getting even smaller this saturday, so, I will have plenty of extra money to start pouring into something that will actually hold some value!! CTH - I will be happy to send you some grease pictures?? although the MB is ALWAYS cleaner than the old Jags it seems! I will keep everyone posted as to my findings/progress. Thanks all! Last edited by tecrekka; 02-13-2008 at 10:40 PM. Reason: additional information |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Try and rotate the fuse on the panel for the fuel pump. Sometimes it's not getting a good connection. I had the same problem.
|
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Is that under the hood? I didnt see a fuse on the drivers side that was designated for anything engine related and I haven't yet located the other fuses.
|
Bookmarks |
|
|