1970 280SEL

Just back from the garage. It's 5 degrees in there which makes work on the heater and blower really fun. I have the entire dash dismantled, the wood has the 5th coat of shellac on it, the steering wheel is off and the vent lever assembly is out. A new one with the unbreakable old style levers is waiting to be put in. With the blower motor connector now open, I could finally check the blower motor. All I get is a 'click' from somewhere. Is there a relay somewhere that might be bad?

So next it's taking the cowl off. Wipers come off right away with a nut way on the bottom of the threaded shaft. After that one is off, and many screws from inside the sheet metal hood and two each left and right it still won't move. What am I doing wrong????? I don't need to take the wiper shafts out, do I? I wouldn't even know where to begin.

I am sure, several of you gentlemen here have done this, help would be greatly appreciated.

If you are trying to repair the blower and remove the heater box I don't remember having to remove the cowl or any of the items outside to do this job. You do need to remove everything inside which is in the way of the heater box which includes the A/C evaporator if your car has A/C and you need to disconnect the heater hoses under the hood but if I recall (and it has been about 2 years since I did it) that's the extent of the work done outside of the passenger compartment.

There is no relay on the blower that I recall. In the heater box there is a resistor which is what acts to control the blower's speed. Various models had different speeds but mine had 3 as I recall.

My advice is to find a new old stock blower and replace your old one. If you are going to the trouble of spending the 20 or so man hours replacing it then you want to make sure the blower you put in there will last. Also, its a good time to rebuild the heater valves.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

"After that one is off, and many screws from inside the sheet metal hood and two each left and right it still won't move."

I believe the cowl piece is welded. So, I used a cutting wheel to cut an access panel. I found I didn't have any wires leading to the blower motor. Corroded away, I guess.
You can try lubing the motor bushings, and it might come back to life.
I dismantled the heater box, removed the motor, and did a commutater/brush cleaning.
But, it is difficult to re-assemble the heater box. I posted last month on this process, and am using a PWM board to control blower speed. These boards also come pre-assembled.

http://www.electronic-light.com/advan.html

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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old

That's a great idea! I have a free spot in the dash, maybe I will use it for that.
In the meantime I have figured out that the cowl just needed some talking to - it came right off. I can see the motor, and I can see 2 wires going to it. The motor had some leafs in it. It doesn't move easily, but it does move when pushed.

How did you get the heater box under the dash apart? I have good access to all sides, but I can see only one bolt in the front. Any hints?

Thanks!

This is a 2 piece plastic unit: Front half and Back half.
There is no need to remove the Back half.

And there is no way, your gonna say, "That was easy".

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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old

Just found a good drawing of the plastic parts and a description of how to get them out, which includes removing driver's seat, carpeting on tunnel, center console. Maybe I should do the trunk lid right now, can't see how to get the blower out with the trunk lid still attached.

What were they thinking???????