250c m130 valve adjuster help needed.

noisy valves, blown head gasket, new head job, new head gasket. noisy valves.

i have isolated the noise coming from the valves due to worn valve adjusters. my question is, if i separate the valve adjuster from its base that screws into the block will i be able to put the 2 pieces back together. i ask this because i am planning to pull these adjusters apart and put thread locker on them and screw them back in. my options on thread locker is the blue or the red. i have also heard of people adjusting the valves and the applying epoxy to the adjusters.

as you can see i am trying to come up with a cheaper alternative to buying 12 valve adjusters.

any help with a quick fix would be much appreciated.

I have used a ball peen hammer on the ball adjuster threads to create an interference fit into the steel receiving piece in the aluminum head..
There are two sections of the adjuster ball stud, wack the top section area and screw them in.
Start easy and develop the correct wack.
You will feel the threads lock up.
There is a torque spec for this (maybe 45-60 ft-lbs)
Loctite or epoxy won't hold long.
(this is coming from an former precision aerospace machinist, no, we do not do this sleazy trick on the jet engines)

They can't all be bad. Replace the ones that are less than the minimum spec or feel too loose.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

ok i am with you and the hammer. do i unthread the whole top piece to the ball adjuster and lightly hammer the threads while it is out of the engine on a bench. or do i do this while they are still attached? if the latter how far out do am i able to unthread them and if they come out will i be able to get them back in . do i hammer the threads in one spot or all the way around the threads? round end or flat end of the hammer? any idea how long these things will stay tight for? i think i like this option.

please clarify if you can.

thanks in advance
mark

Take the ball adjuster out, place on something softer than steel (brass, aluminum, lead) and using a hard piece of steel, (dowel pin or 1/2" ball bearing) (you have to hold it) whack the ball with the flat end of the hammer to distort the ridge of the threads, correctly done the threads of the ball adjuster will have a flat spot now. The width / depth / quantity will determine the Interference fit. The key here is interference fit, move the metal, and it will tighten the screw fit when it is re-installed. You have to sneak up on the Whack. Too much, too bad, you cannot undo.

i understand everything you are saying. thanks. should i go straight for the hammer or to the red loctite. you say that the hammer method will hold longer than the loctite? you are sure the red loctite will not last long? i do like the hammer method. in your experience how many spots do you distort? how long does it last? or is it all trial and error?

thanks

The thread locker (especially the red) has the distinct disadvantage of possibly turning into a "permanent" fix. Not a nice thing to have happen for the next time you want to adjust the valves, and you will need to. The "red" can cure so hard you round off the top of the adjusters trying to break it free.

i did as suggested, a wack here and there on the thread surface of the ball adjusters, and WOW what a difference it made. no more noisy valve tappers. thanks everyone for all your input.