I noticed a hard plastic (?) oil return line: from the rear of the cylinder head to the top of the oil sump. It is hard as a rock.

It is moulded, ~3/4" ID, and travels on the driver's side of the engine, downward, to the oil sump. It is in questionable condition; my thoughts are to replace it with coolant hose.

Anyone consider any other options?
What downside is there to use coolant hose?

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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old

Where exactly is this hose, I need to check mine ASAP if it could ruin my motor.

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

It is moulded, ~3/4" ID, and travels on the driver's side of the engine, downward, to the oil sump.

It is under the Intake manifold. You will see the exit on the top of the left side of the oil sump. The oil enters from the rear of the cylinder head;
I mistook it for a coolant hose when I first found it.

BTW, this is a 1977 Euro 280S. I equipped it with a Weber carb.

__________________
1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old

Thanks. Does it need to be replaced or is it supposed to be hard?

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

I would like to know, also. Anything (even steel) is suspect.

A member last year had the front A-frame rip off the car.

__________________
1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old

I know, I wasn't asking you in particular, I was asking all the viewers just as you did.

What do you mean a member had the A frame rip off his car, what does that have to do with a oil hose? I think I missed something.

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

given the age of these autos, all rubber components like fuel lines, brake lines, frame and engine mounts, oil seals, master cylinders etc etc have been through decades of temperature, corrosion and stress cycles.

So, when anything looks suspect, close inspection is required.
In the case of the oil return line, a failure would be catastrophic for the engine.
In the A-frame case, frozen joints (in the front end) transferred the stress to the adjoining steel component. Eventually, the steel fatiques and cracks.

No symptom 'goes away'. It only gets worse. If brake calipers are frozen, so the pads can't return, enough heat can generate to cause a fire.

On this car, when I inspected the fuel line from the gas tank, simply grabbing it created a leak. Both my W108, and the W116, have carbs.

__________________
1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old

I know of one, an upper outer didn't get grease, locked up pivot and broke, the arm stamping.

The oil line, go factory original. Coolant hose for coolant, oil hose for oil, fuel for fuel, no substitutions except in an emergency.

Munich taxi, PM me I have spare motors if you have good bodies. 280S and SE

since a P/S return hose is designed to carry hydraulic fluid, it stands to reason that it can carry engine oil.

Ergo: I'll find the correct size P/S return line hose.
And to impove that, I can bend a piece of copper tubing, so the P/S hose is only at the ends.

P.S. thanks for the offer for the engine(s), but my W114 and 280SE bodies are gone to the crusher.

__________________
1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old

I'm surprised nobody here has suggested just buying a new line from Mercedes? If this line is really so important (has anyone actually confirmed this?) why hack something that might not work?

Original parts are usually the best solution, and for a simple line, it might not be cost-prohibitive one.

Jaime

Since Mercedes refers to this as an "oil return pipe," I am guessing it is plastic, and not rubber.

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Don't Chrome them; polish them

anyone got a picture/ part number / drawing of what being talked about? If it's a return line then it's not under pressure it will just leak first and you should be able to correct before any damage occurs.

I've checked the MBZ maintenance library on this oil return pipe and cheapold is correct. It's just a return line w/no pressure. If you compare this plastic/nylon pipe - which is outside the engine on the cooler of the 2 sides - with the nylon surfaces of the chain-tensioners inside the engine and not so cool, you'll realize that there is little to be concerned about. But if you insist on replacing it, do as jaimekop suggests and buy it from MBZ.

__________________

Don't Chrome them; polish them

Since it is connected to the cylinder head, under the Intake manifold, the manifold would need removal.

I guess it wouldn't fail catasrophically; the leaking oil would be the first indication.

__________________
1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old

Since there appears to be a need to replace something that isn't broken, here's the thing: The return pipe is connected to a cone shaped aluminum port that is held to the head w/1 13mm bolt. And it is next to the intake manifold, so no need to remove the manifold. You may, however, need to remove one of the lines to the warm-up regulator that runs just below the return pipe. Other than this, it shouldn't be much of a job. But again, If it ain't busted, don't ##@@ w/it.

__________________

Don't Chrome them; polish them