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'72 280SE: First drive...I've got my work cut out for me.
I bought this 280SE as a bit of a pig in a poke. The ignition was allegedly stuck, so I couldn't really evaluate its mechanical condition. Cosmetically, it's pretty nice, so it seemed worth the risk.
I ordered a new key and tumbler, and the key came in Friday. The tumbler is coming from Germany. The new key a) looks *nothing* like the key that came with the car, and b) works perfectly. The ignition switch is fine. I jumpstarted the car, and it fired up quite willingly, and began producing prodigous amounts of blue smoke. I let it warm up, and then ventured a drive around the block. Here's what I'm up against, so far: 1. Blue Smoke, and lots of it. After I drove it around the block, it was somewhat diminshed, but it was back to all its mosquito-fogger glory when I restarted the motor a few minutes later. I'll do a compression and (if I can borrow the tools), a leak-down test, but right now I'm suspecting valve seals. I'm tempted to replace those on spec. $20 in parts and a day tinkering on the Merc doesn't seem a bad thing. 2. High idle. Idle speed in park/neutral is high, seems like 1500rpm or so. Loading it up in gear brings the idle back down to something reasonable. 3. Transmission slips, badly. More on that here: '72 280SE: Which transmission do I have? On the plus side, it rides nicely and the AC blows cold. Thanks for the pointers so far, I'm sure I'll be back for more! -Zandr |
#2
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Something I forgot last night that may bear on the blue smoke:
The oil pressure gauge pinned at 45 immediately, and stayed there even after the coolant came up to temperature. Stuck pressure relief valve? -Zandr |
#3
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Does the smoke quit when it's warmed up? If not then probly valve guides, complete valve job. On the 6cyl thats regular maintenance at 135 - 150k miles when folks of the disposable vehicle cult usually get rid of em instaed of doin the work and pulling another 150k miles outa the engine. And it aint unusual to find one w/ oil pressure pegged at idle. Pullin the cyl head for valve work aint difficult, one man can heft the alloy cyl head.
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#4
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Quote:
Quote:
So, not a big deal. Any recommendations for getting the head redone in the SF Bay Area? Cost estimate? Thanks! -Zandr |
#5
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Transmission modulator
When this fails, engine vacuum will transport tranny oil to the Intake manifold.
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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner 1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone 1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car) 1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old |
#6
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Dog is right on valve seals and lets hope the sleeve stays in place. Pretty common, specially if they have been sitting, seals are not a bad job to do. If the smoke blows everytime you start , you cna be pretty sure that is the case, could always be rings, but doubt it at the mileage unless abused. Tranny may simply need a good flush and filter, steady oil pressure is a good thing
Good luck
__________________
Ron 2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth 2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING ! 99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD 62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD 72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD 16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR 19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels 14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green 84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD 71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD 73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace 81 380 SL - Rest in Peace |
#7
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Not saying the modulator isn't bad but tranny fluid smoke is white, not blue.
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#8
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Chain of events is this: wornout seals (untreated) -> wornout guides (untreated) -> rounded valve seats = complete cyl head valve job Techs and do-it-yerselfers like meltedpanda building himself w115 coupla yrs ago can swap out seals without pullin the cyl head, 4-6 hrs labor. At the same time check valve guides for wiggle too. Specialist shop forum lists best techs in SFBay area. Look for the oldest MB tech you can find, hopefully a shop with buncha 108's, 115's etc in the yard. |
#9
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OK, seals it is. It can't hurt, and it's only $20 and a nice day getting to know the Benz. Thanks everyone! |
#10
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Also..
Check the booster for fluid..commonly overlooked . The rear master seal leaks and the fluid winds up in the booster canister..it then gets suckled into the intake and burns.
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A Dalton |
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