Front tire wear question - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

progun · #1 06-07-2008, 08:06 AM

Hey guys. I need to get new tires but I have an alignment issue or bad component to tackle first. My car tracks fairly straight. The outer side of the left front is wearing badly. I checked the toe-in and it is 0 degrees. Any ideas on which suspension component is causing this wear? All the steering components seem fairly new and I see little or no slack in them when having someone shake the wheel side to side. There is a dull clunc sometimes on the right side of the car if I hit a bump a certain way. Any ides? Thanks in advance. Paul

JimFreeh · #2 06-07-2008, 08:55 AM

Paul,

On a car as old as yours, I would assume that it potentially needs a complete front end overhaul.

Best bet is to get the car over to a front end guy and have him check out the ball joints and the bushings.

If the outer wear is only on one front tire, that makes the camber/caster alignment suspect. Toe in would affect both front tires.

If you are planning to keep the car, the investment in a good overhaul of the front end components is one you'll never regret.

On my W123, the front end was completely (ball joints, bushings, tie rods, drag link, idler arm, etc.) rebuilt, including a NOS steering box. It feels as new, and is a pleasure to drive every time I get into it.

Jim

JimFreeh · #3 06-07-2008, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by progun

I checked the toe-in and it is 0 degrees. Any ideas on which suspension component is causing this wear? Any ides? Thanks in advance. Paul

Paul,

Front wheel toe in on a rear wheel drive car should alway be negative. This is because as the car rolls, the wheels tend to pull out a bit, so the toe in pre-compensates for the tendency for the front of the tires to move away from each other while under way.

Front wheel drive cars, on the other hand, are spec'ed with a positive toe, since the drive axle force tends to pull the front of the tire together while under load.

If you have 0 degree toe, this will increase the tendency of the car to wander, and to pull left/right when encountering a bump.

Jim

t walgamuth · #4 06-07-2008, 02:17 PM

But a benz does not call for much toe in. I think it may be 1/2 degree on the 123.

Tom W

Arthur Dalton · #5 06-07-2008, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

But a benz does not call for much toe in. I think it may be 1/2 degree on the 123.

Tom W

But Benz toe is set with a spreader bar..

If he has zero toe and you put the spreader bar on , it will be way off [toe-out]

progun · #6 06-07-2008, 05:25 PM

All of the steering components look to be new already. I was under it today and I suspect lower control arm bushings. Steering is otherewise tight. Thanks, Paul

Arthur Dalton · #7 06-07-2008, 05:32 PM

Leave the left/front on the ground and jack up the right...then take your hands a grab the tire at 9 and 3 o'clock and push/pull to see how tight..

300EDavid · #8 06-11-2008, 07:32 AM

I drive a '90 300E. Just finished r&r my front suspension. Here's what I found out. Do EVERYTHING that you are POSSIBLY going to do to the front end suspension. THEN have it aligned by competent people. If you don't replace the LCA bushings you may as well just not do ANYTHING. They, along with the concentric bolts, are THE key links in a proper alignment. What happens is their lumen (inner diameter) wears and that allows " play ". I tried to figure out why my car pulled to the right all the time. Searched multiple boards,etc. I was not sucessful. So, I hope this info will help some poor fellow like myself, who just happened to have found the answer. I bought a KLANN copy and it took me 7 hrs to do the passenger side. (that is not a typo!) And my arms and hands hurt like a boxers the next day. The driver side took 3 hrs. and that was me lolligagging around. ( learning curve ). I also found out you really don't need a torque wrench. Just tighten it up really,really tight.......then turn it 3 more complete turns!!!!. Just kidding. The person who put my car together did not spare any force. Had to be put together with an air wrench. I should have done a video on how NOT to change the suspension components. Another tidbit. Break ALL bolts and nuts BEFORE PULLING anything off. ( Please remove Compression Spring First as it is not bolted in. ) Pay attention to which direction the Eccentric bolts are before pulling. Draw a picture or make a note. Trust me. You will not remember whichaway the bolt goes on. The eccentric bolts have 'dog ears' that twist the alignment by degrees. That is why they are so important. I had changed one side and they solved 85% of the drift/pull but I wound up having to replace the other side. I bought the front struts and one LCA from this website. The free shipping really helped. Also, I bought the complete setup of the LCA with new bushing and ball joints already inserted and in place. They were original LEMFORDER'S. I finished in the dark in the parking lot of the apartments that I live in. Real Mechanics would have just laughed their butts off at how I did it. But the results speak for themselves. I cruised 15 seconds on the interstate without touching the steering wheel before it touched the white stripe. Well worth it and if you're going to keep the car, I'd recommend the same job on your car. The front struts cost 91. each. the Lemforder LCA about 180. This website was INVALUABLE. That's why I bought the items from here. Be careful. Put the car on Proper Jacks. You can do it. (except the alignment). Good Luck to all. Hope this helps.