Locked my keys in the car here at work about 10 minutes ago, left em' in the ignition. I ended up getting something outta the backseat and then locking the front door from the inside lock then the back door and shut it, then 2 secs later realized what I had done.

How can I open it, or get it opened without destroying it? My window moldings aren't in the greatest shape anyway, so I'm not terribly worried about them. I just don't want to have my lock mechanism wrecked because of this by some jackass with a jimmy.

__________________
___
/<>/>/>
1967 230S automatic
Boston, MA

I have a spare untinted original passenger side window, the drivers side was broken into. really call a professional, they can get in easily.

Thanks Brian, got my car opened by a local tow guy. I happen to work for a company who's main business is worldwide dispatching for unlocking/towing cars for the major automakers (including Mercedes-Benz, we are Mercedes Roadside Assistance for all intents and purposes)

My main worry was that they would be more used to key fobs and electronic codes than 40+ year old lock mechanisms. I've had another old car get it's rare tinted window scratched and the lock never worked the same after the guy was through with it. However, this guy instead had a device which allowed a slimjim to work without damaging anything. It was just like a blood pressure tester, a little airbag inflated with a bulb so that the top of the frame can be pushed out gently without damage to anything, the slimjim had rubber edges so that the lock button wouldn't be damaged either. Took less than 30 seconds to do. A little scary in a way!

__________________
___
/<>/>/>
1967 230S automatic
Boston, MA

If you dont care about your door seals you can probably use the old coathanger trick to pop the driver's lock up. Otherwise, I'd call the locksmith and bite the bullet.

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

Thanks tomguy, I'm all set. Now to start a search for key blanks so I can stop this from recurring.

__________________
___
/<>/>/>
1967 230S automatic
Boston, MA

If your locks are original just order a spare door key from any dealer. The key code is printed on the key (if yours is original) or they can look it up from the build card which the classic center can supply if you don't have one. The cost is about $15-20 per key but they are cut from the machine not copied from an old worn key so they tend to work more reliably.

__________________
Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

I have had mixed results with MB original keys. I got one 6 years ago that was perfect. Last year, I ordered one and it did not fit. Returned it (which was really difficult was it not for the fact that I had a new ignition tumbler in hand and was able to demonstrate that the key code was correct and it worked with my old key), got another one, and again it did not fit. Look at teeth, and they were off from the original key. I went to a local old school lock smith shop and they copied the key (they had the blank in stock) for $4.25. I use that one now all the time and keep my good MB key as a spare in my closet.

Try going to a good old fashioned locksmith/keymaker. You may be surprised what they still have in stock.

Good luck,

Bert

__________________
'70 111 280SE/c 3.5 (4 spd manual) - sold
'63 MGB
'73 MGBGT V8

I think I may try that, we've got a lot of old school keymakers here in Boston. Someone even made me a skeleton key for an old warded door lock I brought in once, lotta old houses around. Old Mercedes are the staple of professor types, maybe I'll hit up a shop in Cambridge, "our fair city".

__________________
___
/<>/>/>
1967 230S automatic
Boston, MA