Do I *really* have to remove the brake line just to change out the pads on my brakes? My rotors are perfect, my hoses were changed and are great. What a drag... Now to go in search of the elusive flare nut wrench. (why are those things always disappearing?)

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1967 230S automatic
Boston, MA

NO

You just push the retainer pins out and drop in the new pads..the easiest pad job you will ever do.

A trick is to put a screwdriver blade behind the old pad and open the bleeder while you push the pistons all the way back in w/driver as a lever [ you do this so the new thicker pads drop right in]. Opening the bleeder makes the piston easy to move and it clears out the crap fluid that settles in the caliper at the same time. No bleeing is needed after b/c you close the bleeder as soon as piston is in..
Peice of cake...

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A Dalton

It is so easy I have my kids do this as their first auto task.
With stuporvision of course.

The hose replacement can be trouble though

Suh-weet! Glad I asked! So I guess I didn't have to undo those caliper bolts then. Any idea on a torque spec for those? Besides "a lot" ;-) What do you all torque your lug bolts/rotors to? I usually work up to 100ft# or so in increments for my steelies, but I've wondered what the official figure is.

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1967 230S automatic
Boston, MA

75-80 ft/lbs

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A Dalton

Thanks Arthur, For both?

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1967 230S automatic
Boston, MA

[QUOTE=todds;1892523]Thanks Arthur, For both?

Yes

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A Dalton

Make sure you put the locking plate on the caliper bolts back in place too. Having had a bolt rattle loose is no fun.

Bert

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'70 111 280SE/c 3.5 (4 spd manual) - sold
'63 MGB
'73 MGBGT V8

Yeah, I had this problem on an Alfa 164 once, what an ear piercing deep squeal that made! It was a loud "woooOOH" that almost sounded like a siren. By locking plate, do you mean the lockwashers? I didn't see any plate on my caliper bolts. I do see some plates/springs on the pads, presumably anti-squeal stuff.

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1967 230S automatic
Boston, MA

My 111 does not have lock washers, but a metal strip (shaped to form around the caliper) with two holes through which the two caliper bolts go. Having tightened the bolts to correct torque, you then proceed by bending the edge of the plate and tap these edges against the hex side of the bolt. It provides a physical form lock instead of a friction lock from lock washers. Not sure what the official name for them is, but look at EPC, you'll probably see them. I forgot them once, never again

Good luck,

Bert

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'70 111 280SE/c 3.5 (4 spd manual) - sold
'63 MGB
'73 MGBGT V8

Darn, mine is totally missing, instead there are lock washers on there. I see it in the first pic:
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=111010%5F239&M=180947&VIN=%2A&CT=F&cat=239&SID=42&SGR=001&SGN=01
And I'm familiar with this method from other applications. My calipers are Girling, as evidenced by the giant "G" embossed on them, perhaps some were different or some former gearhead was being lazy. I suppose I should re-use the springs/plates from the old pads, the brand new pads from the dealer didn't come with anything except a fancy little rope handled glossy shopping bag with a Mercedes logo on it. You'd think I had bought "rotor exfoliant" or something.

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1967 230S automatic
Boston, MA

I have had new pads that came without the springs, and I have had some that had them in the box. I mostly bough from Rusty Cullens and I think you can specific whether you want them or not. It's all ATE type aftermarket stuff anyway.

By the way, if you have some sheetmetal (not too thin though), a metal scissor/cutter and a drill, you can make those locking plates yourself. Just like in Kindergarten expect with metal instead of paper. Not as pretty as original, but it'll work.

Good luck,

Bert

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'70 111 280SE/c 3.5 (4 spd manual) - sold
'63 MGB
'73 MGBGT V8

Lock Plates

Original # 111-994-04-32

Replaced by 115-994-07-32

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A Dalton

I have a set of those plates (brand new) - if you are interested PM me and I will send them to you if you can use them. They have the same PN as the ones Arthur show above (the 115 number).

They have "ears" on them which you bend up to hold the bolt on. The ears break off and most mechanics just discard them then since they serve no other purpose. I bought a spare set for one of my finnies but never installed them so I know I have them here.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

"Blue" thread locker from Loctite works as well as the lock plates. I discard mine when I pull them as they are usually rusty or covered with nasty.