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  #1  
Old 07-11-2008, 11:36 AM
1982 280SE EUROPEAN W126
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 49
1982 280se windows stoped working

1982 280se windows stoped working
After finaly geting every bug out of this car, before my dad passed, he warned me that the power button sticks on the driver side in the up position so i was always CAREFUL'. But oh no, the girly could not keep her hands off of it. While i was driving, she closed my window, and of course the button stuck and now no windows work. This hapened to my dad and he had to replace the window mottor, so thats the first thing i thought of or hoping the fuse went out. The fuse is not blown, and the mottor still works when i removed the door panel and ran power to it . So now i am back here seeking advise. I thought if i would change out the swich maybe it all would come back on, but after talking to a guy at a shop, he says that would not cause the other windows not to work. Can anyone give me a hint what i should do with this problem. Alex


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  #2  
Old 07-11-2008, 01:56 PM
tyl604's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 3,641
Provided your car is like my 81 300SD the driver's window and the passenger rear window are on the same fuse; if both stop working at the same time, you know it is a fuse. Assume same goes for front passenger window and driver side rear window but not sure. You said that all four were not working but that you could power up the driver's side motor;not sure what you are saying. Are you saying that all motors work but the windows will not move?

On the front driver's side window, look to see if you broke the plastic sliding jaw. Usually the dealer will not replace this but will try to sell you an entire new regulator. Pretty easy fix.

Give us more info on symptoms so we can help you diagnose all the problems.
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  #3  
Old 07-11-2008, 02:53 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
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Open the door so that the courtesy light comes on. Then hit the switch, if the light goes dim, the problem is not in the circuit or the switch.
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Al
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  #4  
Old 07-11-2008, 03:45 PM
1982 280SE EUROPEAN W126
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 49
Ok, Let me better describe it. Yes its the double swich on the floor that controls the drivers side window.and the back window on the drivers side. The swich has been sticking for the longest time when you close the drivers side window. All i know is that it was stuck in the closed position so something went out. I thought it was the motor that burned out again, as it did for my dad before he passed almost 1 year now. Anyway I pulled the panel to check it but it works. Meaning works when i ran power to it from my charger. Had to pull the panel off the passanger door also so i could close it the same way so i can drive it when it rains. I would of thought there is a relay or something that controls the windows. The guy at the shop said something about a capasedor maybe going out stoping power to the motor the 12v that it needs. Of course he never said where it would be at. So if anyone could lead me in the right direction i would be greatful.
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  #5  
Old 07-11-2008, 03:53 PM
1982 280SE EUROPEAN W126
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 49
ps The dim light goes out fine when i close the door, there is still some power to the swich cause it lights up when i turn the light on. So where is the part that would go out when the swich stuck? The window mottor is a 2 line prongs; CAR Is a graymarket 280se always had problems cause the graymarket type, looks just like the 300sce i think that i seen on the road and some other ones. Looks prety close to the picture ALABBASI is showing on the bottom .
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  #6  
Old 07-11-2008, 04:07 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 5,135
I think there is a confusion here with my diagnostic step. This is what I mean:

1) Open the door so the that the courtesy light by the rear view mirror lights up
2) With the door open, press on the electric window button.
3) If the light turns dim when you hit the button, then you are getting power to the switch which would mean that there is a circuit and hence the switch should be fine, so your problem is in the motor.
4) If not, then the issue is with the switch.

if it's an 82, it would be a W126 body car like this:
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Al
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  #7  
Old 07-11-2008, 05:28 PM
1982 280SE EUROPEAN W126
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 49
Thats it' Same as the picture you are showing, and yes its w126. Ok i will see if the light goes dim when i do that. But how could there be a problem in the motor if its working when i touch the wires with the charger directly to the motor,? cause it works like that. Is there not a relay or something between the swich and the motors?
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  #8  
Old 07-11-2008, 05:32 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 5,135
Quote:
Originally Posted by alexoll View Post
Thats it' Same as the picture you are showing, and yes its w126. Ok i will see if the light goes dim when i do that. But how could there be a problem in the motor if its working when i touch the wires with the charger directly to the motor,? cause it works like that. Is there not a relay or something between the swich and the motors?
There may be a relay, but im not sure if the relay is for all the windows or one per window.
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Al
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  #9  
Old 07-11-2008, 05:58 PM
1982 280SE EUROPEAN W126
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 49
Ok the light does not go dim when i press it. I had the window going up and down when touching it with the battrey charger wire directly to the motor.
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  #10  
Old 07-11-2008, 08:19 PM
1982 280SE EUROPEAN W126
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 49
Ok thanks' I had to read up to understand what you meant. So sense the light wont dim there might not be power in the swich cause its burned out . I will go with my first thought of replacing it sense its sticking anyway,then maybe with some pure luck everything will come back on. Only reason i second guest that decision is when the mechanic said that it should not effect the other windows. Any sugestion where to order that swich cause only ones i seen had like a brass around it and mine has just the black plastic dropes right in to the slot without the brass trim on it. If that works , its still cheaper then another motor that my dad had to purchase, god bless his soul. This car was his baby after he brought it back from germany in the 80's I finaly got all the other bugs out of it that he been trying to figure out for years and got tierd of paying shops to work on it. Alex
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  #11  
Old 07-11-2008, 08:21 PM
1982 280SE EUROPEAN W126
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 49
PS; Is that your car in the picture? cause it looks great'

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