I've written before about this car (soon to go to the local pick a part if I can't get it running right.) In previous threads I had suspected or told to suspect a vacuum leak etc as the car was smoking, choking, spiting you name it. I got all new gaskets, including the carb flange for the stromberg 175- anyway, vacuum gauge reading steady at 20hg but car still acting like crapola- I hooked up a timing light as I thought maybe in timing, and its about 20-30 advanced but when I turn the distributer to align at the proper setting - it stalls and won't start. So, out of time it starts, but coughs, spits, backfires - obviously not a good thing. At my wits end but thought I'd ask for help (once) again- I did replace the points and condensor with an electronic hot spark unit- (car did the same with the points), new coil, new plugs- any advice other than towing to the dead Mercedes place???? Thanks

Where is it located? You could pull the valve cover and check the timing marks on the camshaft.

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With best regards

Al

run a compression check. That will tell you if you have a burnt valve or something inside the engine not correct.

Take off the cam cover and rotate the engine until it's aligned at TDC on the crank damper. There is a raised mark on the first cam bearing and it needs to be aligned with the notch on the camshaft. You may have to rotate the crank one extra turn. Please take some pictures and post them. These engines don't have a chain stretch problem like the V-8's have.

Then you need to look at the distributor alignment.

Do you have a service manual, Chiltons for instance? MB CD's?

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Pull the number one spark plug, put a finger over the hole and bump the motor over till you feel air pressure. Now watch the timing marks and bump it to zero degrees. This should bring number one cylinder to TDC.

Pull the distributor cap and verify that the rotor is pointing to the number one tower. There may be a scribed or cast line on the rim of the distributor where the cap sits to indicate number one. If not, just make sure that the rotor is pointing to the tower that the number one spark plug wires is connected to.

There is a chance that the distributor is out of time with the crank due to it being reinstalled incorrectly or that the chain has jumped.

Question for others, does he have a hydraulic chain tensioner? Can he check by rotating the crank back and forth?

I had 15 degrees of slop on my '74 F250 so I pulled the timing cover and found all of the nylon teeth in the pan

Michael

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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033
Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120

He does have the hydraulic tensioner. Do not rotate the engine backwards! Pull the plugs and use the power steering pump nut (7/8" wrench will work) to turn the engine clockwise.

First thing is to check the compression. Since you will have the plugs out then check the chain stretch.

I have never seen a M115 engine stretch the chain (not saying it couldn't happen) or jump a tooth unless the tensioner was COMPLETELY worn out. The sound of the chain slapping would be a dead giveaway in this instance.

I have seen machine shops cut the head thickness below the minimum which can result in a valve guide or two actually coming loose from it's mounting. They will travel up and down on the valve stem making a "knocking" sound and horrendous "puffs" of smoke.

Follow the steps for proper diagnosis. Don't try to jump over any stages because you might miss something as simple as mis-wired plug wires, bad wires etc.

If you do give up on the beastie I could use the intake manifold for a fuel injection conversion project.

My first post here, but I hope it helps.

If you turn the motor backwards (say, when checking valve clearances) the cam chain tensioner has the tightened side whilst the other side has the slack. As soon as you start it again the chain is prone to jump a notch.

With a new and pristine engine this can not happen, but with an older engine with a lot of miles on it (thus having a stretched chain) it can.

So, there should be a mark on the camshaft sprocket, and there is a mark on the flywheel (as mentioned before).

What else: the stromberg is pretty straightforward, but is really sensitive for vacuum leaks; please check everything thoroughly, especially the pull down valve.