Ok guys. Here's the deal.

I have a 1975 280S W116 that I acquired with my uncle in hopes to restore it to good quality.

It has 79k miles on it, bought it with 77k miles on it, and I am the 4th owner. It's a intricate story as to how this car changed hands so I don't want to waste too much time, but we confirmed the mileage was accurate.

Anyway, the previous owner had the car sit for a year and so there was some mechanical work needed.

I did a complete tune up, repaired the vacuum pump which caused oil to leak into the exhaust manifold, and now the car is running and driving great.

I drove it all summer and enjoyed every minute. However, the car still needs work. It could probably use some brake and suspension work, but most of all it needs a paint job. There are some rust bubbles, but the reason whY I jumped on this one was because there was virtually no rust on the car. None on the quarter panels, none in the trunk gaps, nada. Just some small bubbles on the rear wheel wells...that's it! THis car is really original too. Even ahd the original first aid kit from 1975, in GERMAN!

I was quoted by my friend's friend's body shop for $3k on a full repaint, down to the bare metal strip, and all other prep work inclusive. It's a very good price, but for anyone a lot of money.

Then there's that suspension and brake work, and I could bet there are a good deal of rubber pieces needing to be replaced, door seals being one of them. The shocks seem ok but the car seems like it's riding a little low. Brakes are a bit mushy too. Then the A/C has a large leak somewhere, and it needs a new muffler because the current one is hanging and bent and is missing the part where the mounts go. Belts need to go too. Other than that she drives like a champ. Interior is in mint condition too. It has MBtex and it's like it's brand new. Just needs an interior detailing, and the wood has a few cracks but that's it. And then there's the metal work for the chrome bumpers. THere's a lot of scuffs, scrapes and dents on the chrome bumpers. Just a lot of little things...like the head light doors (the plastic square pieces where the circular fixtures sit), and the grill need replacement.

But my predicament is that I came across this:

eBay Motors: Mercedes-Benz : 200-Series (item 300254336454 end time Sep-08-08 12:06:26 PDT)

It has 149k miles on it, and as you could see, is in MINT condition. I wanted to restore the 280S but there was a lot more work than what I saw and am being a little discouraged because working on cars can be a PITA...but it's good fun and learning. And by the time I spend the money fixing up the 280S, I think I could sell the one I have and buy the one off eBay.

I would take out a loan for this one and sell the 280S whenever I can. I would really love having one that is that clean and nice. I would also hugely benefit from the fuel injection from it's small amount of extra horsepower and fuel economy.

So what I need help deciding, is should I sell my 280S, and get that 280SE or should I just continue with the 280S, and get a loan to pay for the repaint and other work...

The purpose of this car would be for a decent daily driver (also have my E320 for that) and for recreational purposes, such as meets or car shows.

What say you guys? Also, would anyone in Illinois be willing to help me check this car out? I will pay for any expenses spent for helping me out.

Thanks

__________________
1975 W116 280S - SOLD
1994 W124 E320 Coupe - Gone

CURRENT - 1974 450SEL - 1987 560SEL

IMO I wouldn't restore the 280 you have as you wil never get the investment back out. I would just clean it up have a detail shop buffout the paint may be spot repair the minor rust but not a full respray for 3K.

If you like the big w116 then forget that 280se and get the best ever w116 made a euro 6.9.

theres one on ebay now a far better car than your ebay 280se.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-400-Series-450-SEL-6-9-Superb-Euro-Model-Mercedes-450SEL-6-9-Very-Fast_W0QQitemZ230286732257QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230286732257&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C65%3A1%7C240%3A1308&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

Speaking as one that has several 116 chassis.

Other than the 6.9 they are not very valuable.
As a driver though they are awesome. Handling is what you would expect from a sports car, ride what you would expect from a sedan.
Restore the one you have if you want to learn the skills.
You can find decent 450 se / 450 sel for under $3,000 if you just like them.

I have all the parts you would need from 2 parts cars.

__________________
1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

THe 450 is nice but i can't afford to keep one of those up. Which is why I want a simpler 6cyl one. I can't deal with the maintenance of the V8, nor the self-levelling suspension.

And the V8's chug fuel in comparison. It's not so much I want to get my investment back, but have a good daily driver that's unique. The 280S isn't very practical on gas. I know 280SEs aren't either in today's standards but I'd rather have fuel injection than carbeuration.

I can't stand the amount of fuel the 280S eats and I just want the fuel injected car. Not to mention I can't stand the way the paint is on the 280S. So either way, it's keep the 280S or sell the 280S and get the 280SE. Here are some pics of the car.

__________________
1975 W116 280S - SOLD
1994 W124 E320 Coupe - Gone

CURRENT - 1974 450SEL - 1987 560SEL

If burbank is in eastern Illinois I might be able to look for you for a small compensation.

Tom W

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Chinny4290 said:

THe 450 is nice but i can't afford to keep one of those up. Which is why I want a simpler 6cyl one. I can't deal with the maintenance of the V8, nor the self-levelling suspension.

And the V8's chug fuel in comparison. It's not so much I want to get my investment back, but have a good daily driver that's unique. The 280S isn't very practical on gas. I know 280SEs aren't either in today's standards but I'd rather have fuel injection than carbeuration.



NONE of these cars are remotely economical. The cost of any permutation is going to be insignificant. The 6.9, however, stands alone, in cost per mile.

M100 cars, the 600, the 300SEL 6.3 and the 6.9, have low production parts and corresponding stratospheric costs.

I've owned a couple, and while very entertaining, they are mind blowingly expensive when they need some unique part.

My lovely wife refers to our ex-6.3 as the $600 car. Every time we drove it, it cost $600.

Therefore, emotion must be considered. If you are handy with your hands, and mechanically astute, you can save big dollars driving an old crock like these.

Consider keeping the one you already have. The devil you know is a lot better than the one you don't know.....

Jim

__________________
14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

Dude! That car looks nice!

By the way, the V8 450 SE and SEL do not have the hydraulic suspension. They shouldnt cost any more to operate then the one you have. That said, yours looks very nice, and I would just paint it.

__________________
1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

If the state of your 280s' paint is troublesome, You might read up on compounding/ polishing your paint. Some have been surprised at how tough the spies-hecker paint is and how good they can get it to look w a little elbow grease.

a good before/ after thread:

http://www.m-100.cc/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2517&SearchTerms=polish

Very good point. If you are afraid of machine buffing your paint, then take it to a detailing shop. For a couple c-notes they may be able to save you the need for new paint.

__________________
1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

Since you are in USR,take the car to Royal Coach in Suffern,NY and talk to Vince O'Hanlon. Tell him Joe Newmark sent ya.

Ask him for his opinion as to the condition of the paint and the rust repair. You might be surprised at how reasonable it would be to have it fixed.

As for the injection Vs carburetor issue, I would rather deal with carbs than mechanical fuel injection on a gas car. I would rather deal with carbs than the early Bosch Jetronic crap too.Believe me, the Jetronic injectio on the BMW is very troublesome and reacts badly to any vacuum leaks.

__________________
"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy"

Current
Monika '74 450 SL
BrownHilda '79 280SL
FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban
Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee
Krystal 2004 Volvo S60
Gone
'74 Jeep CJ5
'97 Jeep ZJ Laredo
Rudolf ‘86 300SDL
Bruno '81 300SD
Fritzi '84 BMW
'92 Subaru
'96 Impala SS
'71 Buick GS conv
'67 GTO conv
'63 Corvair conv
'57 Nomad

So we have an OP who likes 116's and wants better fuel economy than a 280S. To me, the obvious answer would seem to be a 300SD.

__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

What ever you do, get the brakes checked out ASAP. They are a killer item if not properly working. At least have the rubber hoses and brake fluid replaced.
Ed

__________________
Ed
1960 220 SE Coupe (Ponton)
1999 E320 Wagon
2007 E350

Ohh boy...another issue I have to worry about


I guess it's all an inevitability, but it's also a case of just when these problems start developing.


Can you guys enlighten me on exactly what problems arise with the Carb? I know there are inevitable problems, but what kinds? And do the carb problems really overwhelm the fuel injection problems, in the sense that one would rather have to deal with a problematic carb than a problematic fuel injection system?

And why are the brakes killer if not properly working?

And how could I get more power out of the carbed M110, with figures near the FI M110?

__________________
1975 W116 280S - SOLD
1994 W124 E320 Coupe - Gone

CURRENT - 1974 450SEL - 1987 560SEL

Appreciate the heads up by the way on the place in Suffern. I'll be sure to stop by there.

__________________
1975 W116 280S - SOLD
1994 W124 E320 Coupe - Gone

CURRENT - 1974 450SEL - 1987 560SEL

The brakes on a 116 are simple and parts are cheap. $60 rebuilt calipers, $18 pads, $27 for a master cylinder and even the hoses are cheap. What happens is after 25 years the hoses get weak. One day you make a panic stop and push the pedal down and a hose will swell like a balloon. it wont burst and appear as a leak, it just balloons and your fluid doesnt activate the caliper. At 20 years you should change the hoses. They can be had for $15 each.

As for the carb, the best thing for a carb is to drive it regular. Sitting is what does in a carb.

As Skippy says, get a 300SD if you want 20 mpg. I like my 116 300sd, its not quick off the line, heck its not quick period, but its a nice highway cruiser.

__________________
1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes