So I pulled the ailing heater box out of my car to have the cores re-done. It appears that this has been attempted in the past by force and bending instead of by removing the top part of the rear seat vents and therefore the defrost vent ducting that attaches to the side of the box are all chewed up and misshapen at the bottom rectangular fitting. I was considering trying to use various epoxies and filler to attempt to seal up all those loose and cracked junctions, but the vents and flaps inside are also a little shoddy and ill-fitting as well. The two halves of the ducting don't seem to line up tightly. I think this is why, when cranked, I was getting hardly any defrost air to my windsheild. Has anyone bothered to try to fix these or get new gaskets for them or do you just replace them?

My other question involves the motor switch, it appears to have more than just an on/off position, like it is variable or something. Is this the case? Mine only operates as an on/off switch. It's a late fintail (230S) and it's gettin chilly already in New England!

__________________
___
/<>/>/>
1967 230S automatic
Boston, MA

I'm not sure what new parts may be still availible for Fintail heaters, except that there may be similar heater parts availible for the W111 coupes/convertibles from one of Mercedes Classic centers, so long as you're willing to pay the $$$$. Otherwise, if it wee my problem, I would repair and fabricate whatever was needed to put the original heater back in shape.

As for the fan motor, if it's like my early Fintail 220S, yes the fan switch is variable-speed, with a little indicator light in the center of the knob.

Happy Motoring, Mark

__________________
DrDKW

I finished a 108 heater core/blower motor re-do. I will admit that my friend was the $10 glue gun which has served me well in many repairs. The trick is that the basic shape you are dealing with is usually sound. It just takes a little help from a reliable tool to make the small broken parts to become one with their master-to be philosophical about it. Any way, I used the best glue I could find which usually has more yellow coloring in it. And, the advantage to the hot glue is that you get to make repairs fairly quickly in the greater scheme of crawling like a turtle in the pursuit of getting the job done with the climate control system configured the way it is at least in the 108.
Best of Luck..
MBG

You may get alot of joy from the aluminum tape that's available on small rolls at most hardware stores. Epoxy Putty is another great little item. You can mold it into shape with your fingers (use nitrile gloves) and 10-15min later it's cured hard as steel.

You might be able to bring your reostat blower motor switch back to life with some electrical contact cleaner. Typically, the metal of the reostat gets green with corrosion and stops working.

While you're in there, lube up the wiper stalks!!!! Both from the inside and outside.

__________________

Great suggestions everyone! I believe my goal is to get it as close as possible to the way it is supposed to be - in terms of how it comes apart so I'd like to preserve the junctions and original gasket locations. I will definitely need that epoxy putty and aluminum tape. Has anyone tried to source the rubber parts for these?

I actually have a source for the ductwork oddly enough, no price yet though. Depending on that I may just replace some of it. It will be interesting to see what those part numbers for 40 year old heater duct gaskets and flaps do at the benz dealer counter!

__________________
___
/<>/>/>
1967 230S automatic
Boston, MA