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#16
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Yes it is Todd. I got the bushings today and went out under the car to install them. Holy crap! I soaked them in hot water but how the heck do you get something that is a 1/4" over something that is almost 1/2"?!?!?!
Any other suggestions? My next attempt is going to be to find some sort of way to force the damn thing on there. Back out to the garage......
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W210 1996 E300 - Daily W126 1981 300SD - Nice weather W111 1966 230S - Weddingmobile AVPCAR 1999 Honda Si - Drag/Showcar W111 1968 230S - Parts car |
#17
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Yes, yours is a column shift automatic. It will have two different bushings. The number I gave you is the bushing for the transmission end only. You will also need the number for the column end. The W113 cars are floor shift automatics only and have the same bushing at both ends.
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Joe Alexander Blacklick, Ohio 1964 220SE Rally (La Carrera Panamericana someday) 1966 Unimog 404s (Swedish Army) 1969 300SEL 6.3 (sold) 1969 280SL Pagoda 1973 280SEL 4.5 1974 450SLC FIA Rally car (standard trans) 1982 300D turbo (winter driver) 1986 560SEC 1989 Unimog FLU419 (US Army) 1991 300TE (wife) 2002 SLK 32 AMG (350 hp) |
#18
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I don't know how the hell I am going to get this on. From what I have read I need to put the bushing in the arm first then try to get it on the gear selector arm. I'm going to give it a forcing try tonight. It sucks that after all this work, a stupid little bushing is keeping me from pulling it out of the garage for some decent photos. Wish me luck.
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W210 1996 E300 - Daily W126 1981 300SD - Nice weather W111 1966 230S - Weddingmobile AVPCAR 1999 Honda Si - Drag/Showcar W111 1968 230S - Parts car |
#19
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I had the same thing happen as I was backing out the garage toward the 8ft ditch at the back of the driveway thank goodness for good brakes. I got the bushing on the rod first and as they say put in on right because you need to practice in place to make sure it isn't apparent unless you do. once in the rod use extra long pliers, bent angle pliers etc so that it can cover the bushing with the linkage and the tranny rod and squeeze like crazy. That is the easy way. I did the bushing in the linkage and screwdriver on the frame pushing the bushing over the tranny rod. It worked but if I had the long reach/angle pliers it would have been much easier. Similar to these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38598
this next tool is designed for the mission http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=PROD&PROD=MK-881909&CTMP=1&LowCt=0
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Buddy Ligon 1985 300SD 1969 280SE Cabriolet |
#20
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Thanks for all the help and tips fellas, mission accomplished! I put it in the rod then forced the opening wider using a wrench and let it sit for a few hours. After greasing the hell out of everything and using a screwdriver as a prybar I got the bottom one on. I used a pair of pliers and grease to get the top ones on. Gonna get some shots of her tomorrow since it's raining today. Thanks again!
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W210 1996 E300 - Daily W126 1981 300SD - Nice weather W111 1966 230S - Weddingmobile AVPCAR 1999 Honda Si - Drag/Showcar W111 1968 230S - Parts car |
#21
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Nice job! Let us know how she runs. Driving impressions, etc... It's hard not to feel really cool driving one of these, ya definitely get noticed!
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___ /<>/>/> 1967 230S automatic Boston, MA |
#22
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She ran great! Got her up to 55 with no problem. Has more power than my two diesels . The color changing speedo is pretty cool.
Going from Park to reverse/drive is a little rough for my liking. Gonna have to do a tranny flush. What type of fluid do I need to use? I'll check my star classics disc when I get home but I think those could have more info in them. My buddy also asked if I used a lead additive, do I need to? He said that Mercedes may have hardened valves which would eliminate the need for lead additive. Overall it was a great maiden voyage, even though it was down to the gas station a mile away and back. This week I plan to figure out how to get the ignition working with the original key and I still need to get the tail lighting situation all figured out. I have all new bulbs from Phil and remedied the connectors so I should be ok with just minor work. There is also a slight oil leak which I think is just the drain plug gasket. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the help fellas!
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W210 1996 E300 - Daily W126 1981 300SD - Nice weather W111 1966 230S - Weddingmobile AVPCAR 1999 Honda Si - Drag/Showcar W111 1968 230S - Parts car |
#23
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Your rough shifts into D and R might have more to do with your idle speed or possibly your idling switch on the front carb. If that switch is off you'll also get harsh downshifts when decelerating, although on my car the position of the switch seems to make little noticable difference. You should hear a "click" from under the car when you have the key on, engine off, and press the accel slightly off-idle position. You'll hear another one when you floor it.
No lead necessary, don't bother. The owner's manual recommends a variety of obsolete "Type A" ATF's from the sixties. Same for the power steering.
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___ /<>/>/> 1967 230S automatic Boston, MA |
#24
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Type "F" for Ford transmissions is the reccommended fluid.
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#25
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BEFORE you do the trans
WASH IT !!!. Buy A NEW FILTER AND GASKET They don't have convertor but a fluid coupler which will need draining ,theres a 5mm allen plug on the coupler housing which lets you drain the fluid. best practice is to remove the cooler lines at the bell housing at blow paint thinners or gasolene through the cooler lines to flush them ,then replace the copper washers pn the banjo bolts. Check the condition of the flex lines at the other end. While you are under there check the condition of the trans mount and replace it if it's soaked in oil. Oil kills them. It's also a good idea to check the flex disc then too. The end of the drive shaft close to the flex disc has a grease nipple. Give it a shot of grease .Looking at that trans it probably hasn't had any attention in decades. |
#26
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I second all this, the transmission is very important on this car, as much as the engine. They're very expensive to replace and yours looks dirtier than any I've ever seen in a car on the outside, what's with the "hair" embedded in the grease? ;-)
On the plus side, like the rest of the car they are long lived if you give them a modicum of care such as the careful surgically clean fluid change and making sure the linkage/servo control/vacuum are adjusted and working. You should also put a tach on it and see what your idle speed is like, throwing em into gear north of 1100rpms isn't a fun thing for them either or the previously mentioned bushings. Make sure you kick it down off the starting step of your fast idle cam in the Zeniths before rolling out.
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___ /<>/>/> 1967 230S automatic Boston, MA |
#27
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Thanks for the help guys. Gonna follow these steps to a T. Is this the Filter? and the gasket?
I've done some cleaning since those pics were taken, and I have no idea what's up with the hair Todd Now that I can pull it out of the garage I am going to degrease and clean everything. I also notice that when she is in park she idles high, the adjustment screws are still very hard to turn even after a through cleaning, and when she is in gear the idle drops down where it should be.... Once I can take it down to "Mercedes Frank" I'm sure everything will be fine. I'll post some pics as soon as I can fellas! Thanks again.
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W210 1996 E300 - Daily W126 1981 300SD - Nice weather W111 1966 230S - Weddingmobile AVPCAR 1999 Honda Si - Drag/Showcar W111 1968 230S - Parts car |
#28
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Quote:
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___ /<>/>/> 1967 230S automatic Boston, MA |
#29
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Ahhh the joys of chasing vacuum leaks!!! She's going into storage soon (damn Michigan weather) but I'd like to get her running good before she heads off to the hot rod shop for suspension and paint.
I'll be doing some degreasing tonight and will chase the leaks while she's outside.......
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W210 1996 E300 - Daily W126 1981 300SD - Nice weather W111 1966 230S - Weddingmobile AVPCAR 1999 Honda Si - Drag/Showcar W111 1968 230S - Parts car |
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