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  #31  
Old 11-11-2008, 02:57 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
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Pressure reservoirs? Your car reminds me of my canada spec 6.9. It only needed a few very simple fixes and some paint on it's rust free body to get it looking like a million dollars.
A/C runs R134 but the whole system was worked through by the PO and will now turn your fingers blue.
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With best regards

Al

Check out the W114, W115 enthusiast website.
http://www.stroke8.org

http://www.w108.org

Join the Mercedes W108 group
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/mercedesw108/

My 280SL restoration

http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/a...0959.thumb.jpg
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  #32  
Old 11-11-2008, 03:11 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: New Castle County, DE
Posts: 942
Neil, owner of Star Motors (300sel dot com) is a strong supporter of anything M-100. I'd get a quote there (plus their website has lots of information).

Another is Fastlane (see above banner), also Rusty or Tom at buymbparts dot com.

I've had my 6.9 for over 18 years, still brings a smile.
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Hanno
'79 6.9
'83 280SL, 5 spd.
'94 E320 Sdn. 124K, almost perfect, 5 spd candidate
'94 E320 Sdn. (green!)
'95 E320 Wagon
'95 E320 Sdn.(on loan to mom!)
'95 E320 Sdn. 275k, winter car
'87 300E (5 spd. conversion) Sold
'79 280E, parting out
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  #33  
Old 11-11-2008, 04:25 PM
diametricalbenz's Avatar
The Crowbar of Embriage
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 3,505
I have had mine for only 4 years and I love it. Leaning into that right pedal always brings a smile.
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1996 Dodge Ram 5.9L Cummins 12V 4(A) 4.10 - 163K - For Sale
1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k
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  #34  
Old 11-12-2008, 06:52 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 310
Cool

Quote from local dealer on pressure reservoirs for 164.00 + tx.

Euro Parts Direct price--153.71, no tx or shipping chgs. Have one coming.

Fixed the no-go heater fan. Would not start w/o a shove. Sprayed in some electric contact cleaner & blew it around thru the cooling hole for awhile. Still wouldn't self-start until I rapped it a lot at the shaft ends to loosen things and let it run for awhile. Rapped some more and she took off full blast. Let her run for a half hour and she self-starts. Put her in and now I'm warm. Really blows. Not your MB-recommended technology, perhaps, but effective. We'll see how time treats it. Another trick for the book. My guess is that corrosion or garbage of some sort got on the segmentated armature and the brushes couldn't make contact until "encouraged". Maybe the spring pressure of the brushes was compromised by the same crud. ( Maybe this thing was in a little FLOOD!!??? ) Underdash wiring and other contacts look OK, though.

Another brick in the wall comes off.

Sparky

'79 #7252
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new? 6.9-mb-elk-river-3.jpg  

Last edited by gs sparhawk; 11-12-2008 at 06:53 PM. Reason: missed item
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  #35  
Old 11-17-2008, 09:31 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 310
Angry Nearly----------

Dang near had her up and cruisin'. Got a new press. res. and changed the main under the left fender. Had a few issues with fittings but got the old one out and drained what seemed to be a sphere full of hyd. oil out of it---so, I'm thinking yea, that's the one. Putting the new one in and, reading the removal and installation of the central reservoir in the on-line manual, I note that one should mark the pressure switch and install it back on the same marks on the ring fitting. My last move was to tweak the switch beyond snug, to the mark and, wouldn't you know it, the sudden, dull twitch of the wrench that says you went too far. Now I have a two-piece pressure switch. Man, I don't know why I didn't beat something with a big wrench. I can hardly explain my disappointment. I'll try to twist out the piece in the sphere and order a new switch. I was just one wire connection away from driving like a prince. And it was outside in the cold, too. I've been lucky so far. Dam, I knew it was tight enough but I thought the manual should be followed. Yeah, right.
Anybody nearby SD have a spare?? Down to my local dealer in the AM, I guess. It shouldn't be a wear item.
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  #36  
Old 11-18-2008, 03:15 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 310
Next day

One minute away from success and a black hole appears--busted it.
I figured, what have I got to lose??? The stem out of the lower end of the elect pressure switch had broken off where the groove is to let the cross drilled hole allow excess fluid out through the banjo fitting. Precious little there for strengh, No wonder it broke. So I figured--get out the wire feed & get to work. I ground a little vee and stuck a just-right screwdriver shaft through the center hole to align the pieces and set to welding. Ground the slag and lumps down and got another groove in the shaft and put it togrether again. So far, it works but I will change it out anyway to alleviate the 'let-down' feeling some day on the road.

Still doesn't cure the bouncies. Must be another sphere gone bad.

Also broke the plastic ends on the front leveling valve connecting rod. Plastic bushings go bad after 29 years. I may actually understand this thing by the time I'm done.

BTW, the manual suppliment for the 6.9 says right off that the suspension dampening ( as in 'shock absorbers') is accomplished by passages in the collar of the piston within the suspension struts. There appears to be no restriction in the passages between the strut and the pressure reservoirs. Wouldn't want one there since it would hinder quick enough response from the suspension and softness would disappear. The damping of the piston movement also only seems to occur as the piston goes down in the bore---as when the vehicle is on the way up after hitting a bump and is rebounding. Makes sense since we wouldn't want to be restricted in absorbing the bump--except by the pressurized gas in the resrvoir, but, otherwise, we want to restrict the "recoil". We do want free movement of oil to and from the pressure reservoirs but restricted in the strut to dampen oscilation. I would guess that MB engineers sized the hoses correctly based on experience but I probably would have sized them larger to provide more rapid absorption of a bump. But, hey, I'm just the driver.

Anybody have a leveling valve rod with good plastic bushings?

Onward.

Sparky
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  #37  
Old 11-18-2008, 04:19 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: brisbane,Qld.Australia
Posts: 2,042
This guy is wrecking a 6.9 with lots of new parts on it.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&&item=200274199554&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:AU:1120
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  #38  
Old 11-18-2008, 07:05 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 310
Thanks for the tip. I sent a question re the pressure switch. Might be a lot of shipping from Aussi-land, though.

Steve
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