new? 6.9
 

Looking at a 6.9 w/130,000 mi , good engine and body. Although this has probably been discussed---what are the major points I HAVE to cover on inspection. Any deal-breakers??

I have a double handfull of MB diesels and have wrenched quite a bit so I'm not intimidated. I appreciate all of the great info I have read for the past years and I thank you for your contributions.

Sparky

Watch out for rust. Engine, gearbox and suspension are 6.9 specific and should be in good shape. Pretty much most of everything else is W116 and I won't go into that.

If any non w116 need repairing, then it could cost a chunk.

Be prepared to be friendly with your gas station attendant, you will see them often.

The BIG question is the suspension...

Thanks for the tips. The responses were just what I would have expected after poring thru the posts but I need the support. She's a big mamma so daddy better be smart.

The price is right and would suggest there is room for additional expense. I'd suppose that there are the "usual suspects" when it come to the suspension but I need to be prepared for the worst-case scenario. If I can come out with a nice car, a few thou wouldn't be a problem. ( Lucky dogs who buy a good one to start with.)

I think the susp. is down. What are the secrets to getting it back up--even for a test drive.
(No Viagra jokes)

We'll see what we see---and, thank you,

Sparky

Viagra jokes aside....the car should be at operating height in under a minute. Mine takes 2-3 if sitting for over a month without being started when revving at 2500rpm.

Check for leaking of the struts on all corners.

The ride should be compliant and not harsh, the trans should engage quickly, shift smoothly and not flare of course as 360-405lbft of torque is a lot of twist.

Thanks for the tips, diametricalbenz. I dearly hope that it does pump up to height. That will be a relief. I'll eyeball the underside of the susp if I can get under there. Leaks should be visible if there. Engine should speak for itself--although the seller said that it leaked a lot from the covers--valve/camshaft. And I hjope the interior is salvageble. If it is a deal, I'll post the evidence and join the proud and smiling sometimes-moaners.

Sparky

Any simple, limp-home fixes for suspension or am I dead if it doesn't go up? I've done many a patch job to get things home and probably won't stop now.

(Jack her up and stuff a tennis ball between the susp & the frame? A BIG, STRONG:) tennis ball??):)

Going up to see it today.

Thanks,

Sparky

these cars come with rubber blocks for that purpose but it's not often that you find them with the car. Best thing is to get a flat bed.

Finding those gummipuffer blocks would be an awesome find if the car had them. They can't be bought new for less than $500. I can't imagine how you'd get the car onto the flatbed without some severe scraping going on. I suppose winching it ever so slowly is the next best thing.

First,don't be put off if there's lots of oil around the struts,they are designed to leak ( lubes the strut shaft) but the rubbers garters must be in good condition.
Lifting is easy ,either the stock jack in the lift points or a trolly jack under the front ,to the rear of the front wheels and lift under the chassis rail NOT the rockers. they will bend.

you can then place a piece of wood on top of each lower suspension arm ( between the chassis rail ands arm). Lower the car onto this then Zip tie it in place . You do the same at the rear by placing wood on the outside of the trailing arms between the arm and the floor. You only need a 2" thick piece to get the car high enough to move .

The Engines are bullet proof ( though i discount Idiot proof) but the trans have serious weak point. The input spigot is the same as used in all trans of the era and the sheer mass of the 6.9 convertor eventually wears the teeth off . This in turn causes the teeth to break off and enter the trans. Result? one grenaded trans. This can be avoided by regularly servicing the trans, something which is often 'forgotten' with 6.9's due to the amount of oil involved.
http://www.m-100.cc

genuine new owner ( Certainly, Officer. My license, you say?)
 

Fine people, guess what. -------I may have discovered one of the few low priced 6.9s with a good body, very good upholstry, a good engine AND a suspension that goes up when you push the thingy on the dash. Maybe pushed too much. Ended up with a very bouncy ride--not unlike a jacked up low rider.

What is the proper use of the "thingy"???

Plus,--it has that pleasant and libido-energizing low rumble that comes when the rear muffler has been left off ( or, in this case,--- rusted off). It's a "two thumbs up" find and I own it. Now, about the sucking-in sound that will occurr every time we pull into the petrol station--------

Perhaps I need an operators manual. I think I am going to DRIVE it home.

It also has a certain "history" that may remain unstated since certain "authorities" exist in the provenance.

Thank you all for the assistance and encouragement. I'll post some photos.

Sparky

The thingy is the height control. You leave it pushed in until you need to lift the car on rough roads or Off road :rolleyes: And you can set the height valves so the car rides a bit lower and when you approach speed humps you can raise it up. You can drive with it up but the sensation is not real good.
If the ride is hard and bouncy the spheres need changing.

Talk to us about price, there are two real good ones here in San Diego unsold for years because they are not pushed onto market

Anybody got a part number on the blocks? We get a big club discount at the dealer and I bet they don't sell those very often. I can check the price.

I thought about having some made, not sure what type of rubber I would need.

Grab an old truck tire, cut it up with a metal blade on a jig saw and glue & wire a few pieces together until you have a block. Repeat three more times.

Sparky