w115 alinment disaster - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

pixelsblack009 · #1 12-31-2008, 05:32 AM

hello i just got over a major hurdle (ip timing) and i need some specs for the 1975 w115 240D after i did the alignment the car wobbles on a strait road, i did the alignment and set the car's front tires with no toe-in now the car is un controllable and it feels like the tires are loose but they aren't please post back as soon as possible thanks Jeremy

ps alignment specs

Pooka · #2 12-31-2008, 08:49 AM

This is complicated. I would recommend having the alignment set at a good shop that can do a four wheel alignment, but before you do that there are two other things to check.

Do any of your tires have a slipped belt? A good tire person can tell if a tire has slipped a belt just by looking. A tire with a slipped or seperated belt on the rear can make the front end feel loose when you take a corner.

Check the play in your steering gear housing. The three bolts that hold the housing to the frame are known to break after thirty years or so and need to be replaced. You can operate the car with only one bolt left, but it will handle very oddly.

Have someone in the car turn the steering wheel while you watch the housing. If it moves away from the frame just a bit you have a broken bolt that MUST be replaced.

Pooka

waybomb · #3 12-31-2008, 09:27 AM

If one is loose or broken, I'd replace all of them, not just the bad one.

pixelsblack009 · #4 01-01-2009, 03:45 AM

I checked that if i had the specs on how much the toe should be then i could handle the rest i think, there is no play in the ball joints ect ... this started after i had a go at setting the alignment my self and i set it with out toe now if i set the alignment with the specified toe it should be ok i think

pixelsblack009 · #5 01-01-2009, 05:10 AM

also i had to leave my car out yesterday and looks like i will have to today as well becouse i did not exacly get the specs so if possible please post the specs about the wheel alignment and toe tomorrow so i can put my car in the garage hope fully tomorrow, every thing else is right no faults with the tie/track rods pitman arm is not bent intermidiate arm is not either and i put in new nuts for the steering box the car was sterring fine untill i got the briliant idear of messing around with the alignment please understand thanks jeremy

ps my car is a right hand drive

meltedpanda · #6 01-01-2009, 10:05 AM

this is not for the backyard mechanic, you need the proper tools and equipment. For one thing caster and camber must be done at the same time and then you do the toe in. Settings vary if you have power steering or manual steering.
Caster is adjusted byswivelling the front axle carrier by means of the eccentric bolts, camber is adjusted at the upper steering knuckle by turning the cam bolt, toe in anout by changing the length of the tie rods , wheels in staight ahead position

meltedpanda · #7 01-01-2009, 10:05 AM

this is not for the backyard mechanic, you need the proper tools and equipment. For one thing caster and camber must be done at the same time and then you do the toe in. Settings vary if you have power steering or manual steering.
Caster is adjusted by swivelling the front axle carrier by means of the eccentric bolts, camber is adjusted at the upper steering knuckle by turning the cam bolt, toe in anout by changing the length of the tie rods , wheels in staight ahead position

pixelsblack009 · #8 01-03-2009, 04:39 AM

i have heard many of the forum members say that its not difficult to get a accurate alignment and they are so many diy posts on Google none for the Benz alt least for this model is it not possible for someone to give me the specs i only need camber and castor

Skippy · #9 01-03-2009, 04:57 AM

1. I don't have the manufacturer specs for this chassis.

2. I have had "several" alcohol beverages.

That much being said, just about any RWD car will drive decently well with the camber set at or near zero (plus or minus a half degree), with the toe just slightly "in" (anywhere from a sixteenth up to an absolute max of a quarter inch). Caster is where things get a little different. I know the W123's like a lot of positive caster, as in 8 or 9 degrees. Since the W115 has a more conventional front suspension design, you can probably get by on a lot less. Anything positive will probably work at least halfway well.

meltedpanda · #10 01-03-2009, 03:19 PM

this is for a 220D 1973, i suspect it is close to the 75

Camber - 0 degrees, 15 minutes, +/- 10 minutes/20 minutes respectively
Caster (PS) - 3 degrees, 40 minutes +/- 20 minutes
(Manual) 2 degrees 40 minutes +/- 20 minutes

pixelsblack009 · #11 01-04-2009, 03:56 AM

thanks for the info could you tell me what "15 minutes, +/- 10 minutes/20 minutes respectively" means could anybody tell me how to set this close to accurate with strings ect my manual says example(toe in: 302+ minus under the plus symbol and 2) what does that mean thanks

Todd Miller · #12 01-04-2009, 12:58 PM

You're wasting your time if you think an aligment can be done ACCURATELY without setting the car up on an alignment rack. How much time do you think you'll spend doing it wrong, as compared to the $69 you'll spend to have it done right the first time?

Not to mention the increased wear on the tires.

meltedpanda · #13 01-04-2009, 04:48 PM

since you are trying so hard 1 degree equals 60 minutes so 15 degrees is .25 degree

pixelsblack009 · #14 01-06-2009, 06:16 AM

the reason i have to do it my self is that the alignment guys are idiots each time i say toe in they set it at toe out and there is allot of toe out so my tires get balled in no time i don't quite get what you mean by "1 degree equals 60 minutes so 15 degrees is .25 degree" what does minutes have to do with this i don't quite understand, each time i get my car aligned i feel my wheels screeching in the steering wheel i can handle the toe in after reading a diy guide the guy says it's quite accurate what i cant handle is the camber and Castor i don't know how to measure them

i am not trying to be a a$$ here just the first time i have heard this

Mike D · #15 01-06-2009, 08:39 AM

The first thing to understand is what the terms mean.

Camber is the vertical relationship between a line drawn between the center of the upper and lower ball joints to "true vertical". A "positive" camber is when the upper ball joint extends outside the lower. This makes the "line" extend away from the car at the upper portion. 1/4 degree (15 minutes) is the standard you are attempting. This allows the tire to sit relatively flat on the ground and allows some compensation for when the tire is in a "cornering" situation. It also allows the alignment to "adjust" for driver's/passenger's weight affecting the suspension. Ideally the car would be aligned with the driver and passenger. This is not practical as the weight of the passenger will vary.

Caster is a line drawn between the ball joints but measured in a front and rear alignment. A positive caster means the top of the line points toward the front of the car, in effect causing the car to "kneel" in the direction. A half degree "negative" split is usually factored in to compensate for road "crowning". Obviously the negative split is related to which side of the road you drive upon.

Positive caster gives a "stiff" controlling type of steering while a negative reading gives a "soft" floating type of feel.

W114-115's use a high positive caster.

Toe-in is pretty much self explanatory. The wheels MUST be in a directly ahead, straight position for proper measurement.

Caster and camber adjustments will affect each other (to a varying degree) and will also affect the toe.

Set caster first, camber second and toe last. On older cars you usually have to make a compromise between desired caster and camber.

The lower control arm bushings are very critical on the eccentric cam type of alignment. If they are not in good shape then you are wasting your time.