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#1
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Jack points for a W114 280C
Hello everyone,
I just came back from a trip and was looking over my project car, 1975 280C! I noticed a large puddle of tranny fluid on the garage floor and since I was going to replace the filter and pan gasket anyways this is the perfect time to do it. (The leak obviously got a bit larger!) Only, When I tried to use my jack stands, I could not find clear areas to put them. Rather than risk death by 3200lbs car, I decided to post the question. Question: Where is the correct location to place jack stands? I have ramps, but the carb is off the car right now so I have no way of moving it...
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2006 BMW M5 "Heidi" @ 109,000 miles 2005 MBZ C55 AMG "Lorelai" @ 165,000 miles 1991 MBZ 300E "Benzachino II" @ 165,000 miles 1990 MBZ 500SL "Shoshanna" @ 118,000 miles (On the hunt for a good used M103 engine as of 6/10/23, PM me if you have one to sell!) |
#2
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I always put them under the lower control arms when i had the 73 280CE.
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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12 1982 380SL 1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing 1987 300 D 2005 CDI European Delivery 2006 CDI Handed down to daughter 2007 GL CDI. Wifes |
#3
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Kinda depended on what I was working on with the W114 coupes and my 450SEL. Jack under the A arm and stand under the "frame rail" that runs from the A arm to somewhere under the door or vice versa.
The "frame rail" wasn't such a good choice on the '76 280C as it was made of aluminum tape, milk cartons and under coat spray. Michael
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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033 Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120 |
#4
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Quote:
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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12 1982 380SL 1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing 1987 300 D 2005 CDI European Delivery 2006 CDI Handed down to daughter 2007 GL CDI. Wifes |
#5
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Great! something else to deal with!
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With best regards Al |
#6
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Al, I think you're the only one who would smile at seeing an opportunity to repair rust!
On my 108 I use the frame rails... but they are pretty dinged-up underneath now from doing it for years, so I'd suggest the control arm OR if you choose the frame rail buffer it with a piece of plywood so it doesn't cause a jack-shaped indentation.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#7
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Quote:
For jacking, I like a 2x6 across the big front subframe cross member. Lifting the entire front of the car at once, without letting the subframe "hang" from the subframe mounts. Then I'll either place my metal ramps under the front wheels, or I'll put jack stands under the lower control arms. Depending on what I'm doing, I may leave the jack in place.
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1966 W111 250SEC:
DB268 Blaugrün/electric sunroof/4 on-the-floor/4.5 V-8 rear axle Last edited by Todd Miller; 01-04-2009 at 09:25 PM. |
#8
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When I typed that in, I wondered if you were going to read it! At least where the subframe mounts attached, it was somewhat solid.
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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12 1982 380SL 1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing 1987 300 D 2005 CDI European Delivery 2006 CDI Handed down to daughter 2007 GL CDI. Wifes |
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