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  #1  
Old 01-05-2009, 04:58 PM
RAG60TOP
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 6
Steering Coupling Rebuild

I am about to replace the bushings in the Steering Coupling on my 73’ 450SE since the ones that are suppose to be there now are gone. The coupling is one of the ones that you can rebuild (had a battle with the local dealer on that one). I wanted to know if you can separate the 2 pieces of the coupling enough to slip in the bushings without having to take out the steering shaft from the steering wheel? There seems to be enough play but I thought I would ask the question before I start. Thanks.

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  #2  
Old 01-06-2009, 08:47 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
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Nope. You have to drop the steering gear box and access the coupler from below. The steering wheel has nothing to do with it. The new bushings have to be pressed into place and the locking plates/washers have to be seated on the pins.

This is a good time to inspect the steering box mounting area. Use NEW hardened bolts. Do not re-use the existing bolts.
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  #3  
Old 01-07-2009, 12:26 PM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
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You probably will have to remove the joint to fix it, but you may be able to get to it by pulling the shaft from above, which is much easier. I did this on my W116 , and the R107 may have the same wheel arrangement. IIRC you pull the wheel off and under it are 3 10mm bolts and the column comes up. Look around here - someone described it in detail a few years ago on a W116 and it saved me a lot on agony.

Rick
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  #4  
Old 01-07-2009, 12:30 PM
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Location: Boston, MA
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You won't be disappointed when you finish this. If your old one is that bad it will be a night and day difference, at least it was on my car.
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  #5  
Old 01-07-2009, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rs899 View Post
You probably will have to remove the joint to fix it, but you may be able to get to it by pulling the shaft from above, which is much easier. I did this on my W116 , and the R107 may have the same wheel arrangement. IIRC you pull the wheel off and under it are 3 10mm bolts and the column comes up. Look around here - someone described it in detail a few years ago on a W116 and it saved me a lot on agony.

Rick
Huh! I learn something new everyday. Thanks for the tip!
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  #6  
Old 01-08-2009, 02:16 PM
RAG60TOP
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 6
Thanks for the advice, I am going to pull the shaft this weekend.
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  #7  
Old 01-20-2009, 02:34 PM
RAG60TOP
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 6
Well I finally got the little bugger in over the weekend. I did install it without removing the gear box or the steering shaft. I even did it without unclamping the top section of the coupling. A little elbow grease, skin off the knuckles and a few gentle nudges of a pry bar and it slipped right apart and then back on. I would suggest replacing the spring clips that hold the coupling together, both of mine snapped in the removal. The new ones from Mercedes are of a higher grade steel and seem to lock on better. I would suggest to any one that is having a problem with the coupling to do this job, it is a night to day difference. Thanks for the encouragement on the forum.
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  #8  
Old 01-20-2009, 02:57 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 5,134
I think new couplings cost about about $50. This was a bugger of a job to do on my W108 280SEL 4.5. Looks simple on the 6 cylinder cars and was definitely a day and night difference in the drive.

I just replace the tie rod assembly on my 6.9 and man that also made a huge difference to the ride.

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