Well, My name is Nik I'm 22 and live a little north of Cincinnati Ohio, I'm buying a 71 280se mercedes with about 67 thousand miles. The car runs great and the interior is sharp and clean no real problems.... Theres a little rust on some parts of the body but nothing that is bad, and the rear bumper. I'm paying $2,000 for it. My only concern is the rust underneath the car. Under the driver side area. I'm not sure if it really is the floor pans or part of the frame. I'm not much of a car person but my grandfather in law is. He says everything is great but that rust underneath. I already convinced myself that I'm buying this car. Because that is just me. But do you think im making a bad choice? I'll post some pictures later this week after I get the car. The reason I'm buying it is because my 95 jeep grand cherokee is now dead and I need a new car for daily driving. I wan't to drive it as least as possible. I also intend on taking great care of this car, and keeping it in the garage. I want some advice on the car and what I should do to help correct the rust problem. Thanks!

EDIT: Just to let everyone know there are some Pictures I was ablte to take on the second page now.

if there is a hole in the floor and/or the frame, no matter how pretty it is, you're looking at a lot of work to fix it. 2,000$ is too much.

Driving it now in snow country will only make it worse and fast thanks to salt on the roads.

Other than that, great choice of a pretty car.

May I suggest an equally pretty, far more cost-effective W123 chassis car?

-CTH

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Your car as well as all later series MBZ have unibody construction. So it doesn't matter if the rust is on the "frame" or floor pans. It can go everywhere once started, so check it out thoroughly. (If it is only on a floor pan, this can be repaired or even replaced). The 110 engine you have is just as reliable as the later ones, although switching to CIS fuel injection would save you a lot of future problems. Happy motoring!

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Does that require replacing the engine? or it something else? Sorry like I said I'm no car person.

I looked it up like I should of first. It replaced the W.U.R? I'm not sure what one to get? I looked on there site, and it looks like the unit is like 700 dollars. Could you give me some more in site. On what I would all need to get and about how much it would be.

Oh and to the man who said go for w123. The reason I'm looking into getting the 280se. Is that is right around the corner, and I can not find anything in that price range that is even remotely close. Why do you say 2,000 is to much? What should I aim for when I haggle?

The 71 280SE is indeed a lovely model to own .
A local body shop should be able to assess the replacement of floor panel and the side sills .replacement parts are available . once sorted out you will certainally enjoy it.
mak

For 2000 dollars, go for it, and for another 100 buy yourself a repair manual, and learn how to fix simple stuff. Saves money. Good choice, and a good price.

The 108 Chassis is GREAT! The floor-pan replacement can be pretty extensive. Take the plunge. Drive the heck out of it. And enjoy it even more.

I hate to bad mouth a car I love so don't take this the wrong way, BUT.
I could imagine a non-car person being very, very upset in short order with a 30+ year old Mercedes. It's a lovely and wonderful car, but I can't imagine trying to PAY anyone to fix and maintain one. If you think you'd like to learn, by all means, but if you can't see yourself buying tools and don't have anywhere to work on one, think hard about it. I'd really second the suggestion of a w123 chassis car, especially a diesel. Again I really hate to discourage anyone, but I've known SO many people that came away with a bad taste in there mouths after jumping into an old euro car and not being aware of what an involved ownership it can be. Especially if your nuts enough to try and drive one every day, like me.

All that being said, welcome! Post pics if you get it, let us know how things are. You'll be wanting to replace that carb, several of us are going or have gone with a modern EFI swap, which is golden as far as daily use.

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280ezrider, I know this may sound odd, and I don't expect anything from you. But after checking your profile it seems you live in the Natii. After I get this car and when I can get the money, and was able to affor a new car. and replace the warm up. With the unit you where talking about. I don't know if you like to work on cars enough to want to help/teach a guy like me to install and the new parts and teach me a thing or two what else I should do. My grandfather in law has a lot of tools, so I can use them anytime. I can throw you some compensation too. But i'm going to be honest and tell you I'm poorl . Just a thought. You seem to know your benz. If your not interested and anyone else around the cinncinati area would be willing to help just let me know. I know it sounds like i'm looking for a hand out. But I'm really wanting to learn and I would appreciate anyone's help.

Nik get you a shop manual.you have tools available.this forum is a great help! the only stupid question is the one you dont ask.Just jump in with both feet and dont look back!you will have setbacks but that is with ANY old car.best of luck and let us know how it is going

Hi Nik the Barber;
All the comments above hold true. The choice you need to consider is one of enthusiasm over practicality. If you are young your youth will allow you to surmont any obstacle provided you have the patience and the time.
If you are strictly practical you will need transportation over the dissappointment of not being able to get to where you want to go because your car is in need of repair. I have a 71 280se which is not my daily driver-I doubt seriously that I would enjoy the car if it were so because of the time I have spent and the $ I have spent to bring the 38 yr old back into the limelight.
You will need the proper tools to be safe and the curiosity to stay focused in order to enjoy your ride.
Otherwise, buy it and drive it and don't worry about a thing until it happens!!!!!!

There are a lot of cheap cars you can buy for $2000. Like an early 90's Jeep Cherokee that you can abuse and drive into the ground until it dies, and pay someone to fix for a lot less than a nearly 40 year old Mercedes!

I would not give up my 280SE 4.5 if I could ever avoid it. Even if I had to, it'd be kicking and screaming. But I am a car guy, I can fix anything myself.

A 1971 280SE will average 18 MPG. It has no satellite radio. The AC probably doesn't work. The heat doesn't warm up nearly as fast as a modern car. It will drive a world better when in good tune, it will feel like you're driving an indestructible piece of German art. You must weigh the good with the bad. If it needs work on the injection system you will find it nearly impossible to locate a mechanic who can fix it to the point where it runs like new again. And it'd cost an arm and a leg - figure about half of the purchase price.

For the rust it has, I'd suggest you offer $1000. If you have to pay more than $1500 for it with rust, walk away. We all know from personal experience, so listen to the advice well, make the decision that makes you happy and the one you can afford! If it's because it's cheap, we're telling you $2000 isn't cheap for a 108 with a spot of rust. The economy is soft, gas is on the rise again and rust-free ones in well-maintained order with only minor issues are going for well under $4000.

If you get a good price for haggling, then you will immediately want to treat the rust with POR-15. It will chemically bond to the rusted areas and halt the continuance of that rust and prevent the formation of rust in nearby areas. If water can get through to the inside of the vehicle, seal those areas off ASAP as a wet carpet in the winter will mean interior frost. You don't want to have to scrape the inside of your windows!

The engine is bulletproof, it's the ancillary items like A/C, power steering leaks, charging issues, ignition (point and transistor box) issues, windshield seal leaks, door and window seal leaks, bad brake hoses, engine mounts, subframe mounts, and other stuff that you'll potentially run across. Figure if it's rubber, and the previous owner did not replace it, you will need to as it's over 38 years old.

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Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

You're right; I have just moved to Cincy (Westwood) into an old English Tudor (house). Similar to old cars, they demand a lot of maintenance, so take to heart what the other guys have talked about. That being said, I might have a bash with your wrenching. I am confused though: you mention changing the warm-up-regulator and I had talked about CIS fuel injection. Which one do you want to change?

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