I have been in to German cars for a long time.As a result, I have several sets of points, and condensers laying around.
My question is, does anyone have the correct points, and condenser part numbers - for Bosch part numbers? I believe I have the original, non vac advance ,distributor.
Come to think of it, how about a cap and rotor number too?
Thanks for your help. Mark

Points cap and rotors are available direct from Mercedes at the classic center,but you really should consider getting rid of the points and using a pertronix ignitor. if you join the m-100 group as a financial member you get a discount from mercedes on all parts you buy. Check the resistance in the plug lead terminals too,the value is written on the plug ends. Do not be tempted to install carbon string core leads .

Hi,
you may try the online Bosch catalogue:

http://www.bosch-automotive.com/ecat-online/

as part numbers are being changed very regularly,it`s harder to find them under"vehicle search"function,so use"search via...direct article"...and the site will bring you several old numbres and new numbers and the vehicles that used the part.
for example(using the vehicle search,w108/109 6.3) the ignition condenser today has pn.1 237 330 047,supercedes 1 217 017 100(clicking this again will give you an older number....) and is used in Pullmans also....


contact braker 1 237 013 026 etc..

I priced the parts, and it is less expensive to go Pertronix.My vin is 5711, and non vaccuum advance,original distributor.Do you happen to know what Pertronix number to use?On the 100 website , they all talk about the 1884, but they also have earlier cars.Just wondered if I am the same?
Thanks!!

http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/mercedes.htm

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A Dalton

The 6.3 uses dual points. I would dread setting them, go with the Pertronics or a Crane ignition.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Dual points are no harder to set than regular. Just turn it until the cam produces the maximum gap and set the gap on the points. Then do the same for the other set of points. Is this a problem?

Not harder to set, just harder to keep set..

Dump the points...Mechanical Switching went out with Horse shoes..

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A Dalton

setting dual points requires making sure they open up at the right distance apart from one another. Change the first gap and you change when the second set of points needs to do its thing.

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- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

In no longer even use a distributor,I have a EDIS system,far and away the best deal. But Pertronix should be able to supply you with either 6.3 setup. they have two types now. I prefer to tune a car with pertronix than the old crane fireball which is really stone axe technology today. The disc thing on the crane is prone to failure on a well used cars when the slots become full of plastic as they rub against the magnet.

How about my 6.9? What is the EDIS system and set-up?

Sparky

You don't need to worry about the ignition on a 6.9 .Just replace the plugs and check the leads cap and rotor at regular intervals. theres nothing in a 6.9 distributor that needs touching.
EDIS,electronic distributorless ignition system .
http://www.autosportlabs.net/Main_Page

>

What Magnets ???
The Shutter Wheel interupts a light wave from the Emmitter..it is Optical Switching..not Hall Effect. There are NO magnets.

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A Dalton

What ever it is,I have removed about 6 of them from various cars over the years,all for the same problem. the wheel rubs on the magnet/light emitter and generally I find the crane system to be unreliable. The Durrance 6.9 distributor conversion was a better alternative but unfortunately Randy is no longer with us. For those with access to a lathe etc,A M117 or M-100 6.9 distributor can be made to fit the 6.3 giving absolute reliability.

yeah..whatever it is............

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A Dalton