Installing shocks ('72 250) - need some help - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rgnprof · #1 02-15-2009, 04:07 PM

Anyone have any helpful tips on how to keep the shock compressed long enough to get lined up properly? The FSM shows a tool that fits over the shock keeping it in a compressed condition - which I don't have, of course.

Thanks, Ryan

JMela · #2 02-15-2009, 04:59 PM

It's been awhile since I did mine, but jacking up the corner you're working on allows the suspension to hang at it's greatest height. IIRC I bolted in the bottom and then compressed it using my body weight, angling it into place as it expanded.

goodguy2 · #3 02-15-2009, 06:19 PM

I have a 73 280SE 4.5 and I compressed the shock, and put a loop of safety wire to hold it. Connected the shock to the bottom connection and then released the safety wire. It will slowly release the piston and you can guide it into the upper mount. Just make sure all the bushings and hardware are installed installed on the shock before installation.

t walgamuth · #4 02-15-2009, 06:47 PM

if you have a rubber upper dust shield you can put on a hose clamp to hold it in the compressed position and release it when you have it where you want it.

rgnprof · #5 02-15-2009, 08:10 PM

Hose clamp, huh?

If that works, it's brilliant - another reason why this board is so helpful - I would have never thought of that!

t walgamuth · #6 02-15-2009, 08:18 PM

thanks!

I think I thought it up myself but would not swear to it.

it seems like something my dad would have done.

rgnprof · #7 02-18-2009, 12:02 AM

Quick follow-up - I got the front shocks installed using both the 'hose clamp' suggestion and the 'jack the car up' suggestion. I just couldn't get enough clearance w/o lifting the car some.

Rear shocks are proceeding as well - but, at least on the W114 there is no way that you can do this job without jacking up the rear suspension - placing the jack under the trailing arm. Leaving the wheels on the floor just doesn't give you enough room to remove the shock. I also could not get one of the bottom bolts started, so off to the hardware store to buy ANOTHER tap (10 x 1.50, if anyone is interested). All's well, but it seems like I can't remove an old bolt on this car without having to do some thread repair!

ryan

wbain5280 · #8 02-18-2009, 12:10 AM

KYB's have a string keeping the shock compressed and it's released when installing the shock. Simple and effective.

rgnprof · #9 02-18-2009, 12:50 AM

I'm installing Sachs all the way around - no strings!

Mike D · #10 02-18-2009, 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rgnprof

All's well, but it seems like I can't remove an old bolt on this car without having to do some thread repair!

ryan

Yup, #1 on my often used tools is a penetrating oil and # 2 is my tap and die set. #3 is a dab of neverseeze on the threads just in case I ever need to remove the bolt/nut again.

230/8 · #11 02-18-2009, 10:43 AM

Front shocks are a snap, mount the bottom and firmly tug the top down to compress. It is not that difficult to compress them. If you try the hose clamp business you are almost guaranteed to rip the rubber boot in two pieces. The shocks are highly pressured but not so much that you cannot compress them with a bit of persuasion.

Rears are a bit more troublesome. Jack up the car so the suspension drops to its lowest travel. Raise the car as high as you can when doing this. Once raised, support the lower arm so it does not drop when the shock is loosened. Remove the upper shock nuts and then the lower bolts. The shock should drop an inch or so and if you have raised the car high enough you will be able to work the shock out the opening in the lower arm. If you cannot muscle the shock to engage the bolts, try a small bottle jack under the shock to apply the upward force.The rears are easier to do on a lift, but you must support the lower arm to restrain its travel. The key is to get the car absolutely as high as possible so there is adequate room below the control arm when the wheel is lowered for you to get the shock out that small lower hole in the control arm.

230/8

t walgamuth · #12 02-18-2009, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rgnprof

Quick follow-up - I got the front shocks installed using both the 'hose clamp' suggestion and the 'jack the car up' suggestion. I just couldn't get enough clearance w/o lifting the car some.

Rear shocks are proceeding as well - but, at least on the W114 there is no way that you can do this job without jacking up the rear suspension - placing the jack under the trailing arm. Leaving the wheels on the floor just doesn't give you enough room to remove the shock. I also could not get one of the bottom bolts started, so off to the hardware store to buy ANOTHER tap (10 x 1.50, if anyone is interested). All's well, but it seems like I can't remove an old bolt on this car without having to do some thread repair!

ryan

Actually there are very few bolts that break on a benz with any regularity. the lower shock bolts in back are one of those places!

rgnprof · #13 02-21-2009, 01:08 AM

Well, I'm all done - and man what a difference! I have needed new shocks since I bought the car 6 years ago and the car just 'glides' along now...

I also replaced the rear differential mount and no more clunking.

I was hoping to get a little lift in the rear end, but it still looks like to me the rear end sags just a bit.

Thanks for all the help!

ryan

t walgamuth · #14 02-21-2009, 08:01 AM

New shocks and new michelins transform any car.