I think the repair kits cover a few different boxes so you will have parts left over.

This site should really help:

http://weboldtimer.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=59&Itemid=70&lang=en

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Update on my project-replacing the teflon piston ring. This is one of the most important steps and great care must be taken to insure the replacement ring is not damaged. Since I don't have access to megabuc tools shown on the weboldtimer site I modified the procedure a bit. I warmed the teflon ring in oil as shown and installed it. The ring is stretched out from the installation process and if one just "Pounds it back in" to the cylinder the ring will be torn. I placed the case in the hot sun well in advance. I placed the end of the recirculating ball assy with the new teflon ring in the hot oil bath-about 160F. I then removed the recirculating ball assy from the oil and gently placed it into the case until it stopped. A few gentle taps with a rubber mallet and it slid right in. I let it cool for a few hours and pulled it. The ring had shrunk to the correct size. I should be painting the parts today and reassembling next weekend.

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Tony H
W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe
Manual transmission

Past cars:
Porsche 914 2.0
'64 Jaguar XKE Roadster
'57 Oval Window VW
'71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new
'73 Toyota Celica GT

my steering box has about 2'' of play at the rim . wonder if it will get taken up in the adjusments without making the box stiff to turn.

mak
300sel 3.5

I resealed my steering box and fitted the teflon ring directly by being careful not to stretch it too much. I was able to fit the assy back in the case without too much trouble. Hopefully it will work out.

I did all the adjusments and I still have a bit of play in the input shaft (on the steering column side). I wonder what causes it? How can I reduce it?

Mac,
Check your coupling. Mine was metal to metal-no bushing left at all. I really can't get into adjustments-I don't enough to give advice but here is a crude overview. To adjust the meshing play-the force that the ball on the steering shaft is held against the socket on the power piston-one needs to adjust the threaded shaft coming out of the round nut. The adjustment is opposite of what you might think-the shaft is turned out to reduce the play since the ball is pulled into the socket. The round nut must be kept from turning by using a spanner that fits into the socket on the round nut. The adjustment must be made very precisely because of the way the ball meshes with the socket. It would be better if the box was removed when the adjustment is made.

__________________
Tony H
W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe
Manual transmission

Past cars:
Porsche 914 2.0
'64 Jaguar XKE Roadster
'57 Oval Window VW
'71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new
'73 Toyota Celica GT

Adjustment

Thanks Ron,

I forgot to put the steering shaft in the center position when I adjusted it. I will try again and see how it goes.

Seems like they shut down. I know they had some great information several years ago though. I even bought some parts from them. Anyone know what happened to them?