Replacing M117 Exhaust manifold gaskets on a 108 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 10-16-2001, 03:16 PM

I have leaks. Who doesn't? But seriosly, I am thinking of tackling the exhaust manifold header gaskets on both side of my engine (M117) in my 108. The drivers side has been leaking for sometime and the passengers side has finally joined in. The thing sound like a real clunker now and it's driving me nuts. The rest of the exhaust has all been replaced by my local shop.

Is this a reasonable job to take on in the driveway or will I be sorry I started it? I imagine those manifold bolts and or studs can be a bear and I can look forward to some snapped off beauties to deal with.I understand all the bolts and studs should be renewed when bolting it all back together.

Anyone with experience? Many thanks..

STS

skalie · #2 10-16-2001, 08:38 PM

As a driveway mechanic without a driveway, i.e. street/puddle man, I can say that I have never have had a problem with old Merc blocks.

Spray them with WD40, or whatever that translates to, tonight and tomorrow again in preparation.

JoeyTheB · #3 11-06-2003, 12:39 PM

Shade Tree - Great photo !
Really captures the essence of what we go through.

Mike Tangus suggested a couple of things that I'll pass along:

1) Get you some PB Blaster - he claims it works much better
than wd40 or liquid wrench.

2) Be sure to install the new gaskets correctly -
replacing them backwards/180 out results in early failures.

Maybe someone can chime in on how the gaskets
go on correctly...

MikeTangas · #4 11-06-2003, 12:48 PM

Joe,

Getting the gaskets on correct isn't that hard. I like to hold the manifold in my lap and set each gasket on it's corresponding port. When you do this you will see that one of the four sits 180* opposite of the others, then carefully transfer the gaskets to the head in proper order. Bear in mind the steel side of the gasket goes against the head (if I remember correctly).

Much easier to see what I mean once you have it apart

skalie · #5 11-06-2003, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by MikeTangas
Much easier to see what I mean once you have it apart

He still doesn't have it apart? It's only been like two years.

Edit: oops, thought you were referring to the original poster, I'll shut up now.

Tomguy · #6 11-06-2003, 05:41 PM

OH - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THEM! You'll either strip the nuts or snap the studs. I snapped 2 studs and no bolt I could find would match - I had to get a bolt a bit too long w/the same thread and lop its head off (and a bit of the stem with it) to make one the proper length.

Tomguy · #7 11-06-2003, 06:50 PM

Very easy to do. I do, however, recommend you buy new copper lock nuts from fastlane or mbz.org with the gaskets (or wherever you buy the gaskets from). It will save you a LOT of headaches (the 8x12mm $0.17 ones). Other than that, the only studs I had problems with were the "long" ones. New washers would be a big help as well. I think 5/16" ones for $0.05 a piece from Lowes or Home Depot will work well but check in case.

JoeyTheB · #8 11-06-2003, 11:42 PM

So, do you have to disconnect the exaust pipe to change the
the manifold gaskets ?

And what are the torque specs for putting the new
nuts on ?

Thanks in advance

Tomguy · #9 11-07-2003, 12:04 AM

I don't know torque specs, but no, you don't have to disconnect the exhaust pipes, but I found it to be easier to remove some of the exhaust hangers so I could get a little "Play" in the system.

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