1976 280C - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dieseldaddy · #1 04-02-2009, 10:18 AM

Hi guys. Been a LONG while since I have posted here. Actually used to post on DieselDiscussion board quite alot. Have since sold the diesels. (Boy do I miss them!) I now have the MB bug again and am interested in any thoughts you have on a 1976 280C. I have the opportunity to pick one up real cheap ($500) but want to know what to look out for. Here is some basic info that I know so far:
- rear brake line leaks. Easy/cheap fix?
- some cancer around doors/wheel wells nothing major or structural that I see.
- driver side floor has hole but piece of wood in place. Cant tell with carpet over it.
- New exhaust just last week ($200)
- Haven't driven yet but owner says a little 'hesitation" when first starting off but once at 30 cruises fine.
- Is this right: Air filter is about $40-$50?? sounds a little high for something you want to change every so often...
- What about MPG?? I read 12-15

and also 18-20. What should I expect?

Attached are 2 pics. Sweet looking car (for $500). Just don't know what to expect from one of these. I plan on working on it. Should I expect same nuts&bolts type stuff as with the early 80's diesels?

Thanks!
-Brian

wolf_walker · #2 04-02-2009, 12:04 PM

They do rust, a lot. If it's carbed they do get bad mpg, impressivly bad, and do funky driveability stuff. Yes the huge carb air cleaner is overpriced. I love my sedan though, if the motor sounds solid and it don't smoke and it shifts well enough, I'd buy it for $500. Plan to spend two or three times that easily to make it safe and reliable. The coupes are beautiful.

dieseldaddy · #3 04-02-2009, 12:20 PM

Thanks Wolf_Walker. That's very helpful. I have read alot of your posts. Sounds like you have intimate knowledge of these cars!

I can't see how I'd go wrong for $500 even if as you said it takes another 5+ to get it "reliable". I am really only looking for something to get me thru unitl winter. It will allow me to save money for a better vehicle in the winter. I was thinking a motorcycle for the summer...but cant find a good one for even close to $500. And I can drive the MB in the rain! hahaha

As long as it gets me to work and back safely and not stranded (...much...I have had 80's diesels so "not stranded" is subjective) I should be fine. I will seriously rely on this forum as I did with the W123's for most of my repairs and diags.

Thanks again!

JMURiz · #4 04-02-2009, 02:57 PM

$500 is a steal, good work!

If you find someone with floor-pan parts let me know, I'm looking as I found mine to be rusting from the inside out (must be a windshield seal leak).

Good looking car!

250 Coupe · #5 04-02-2009, 07:01 PM

I've had both a 1971 250C and a 1976 280C. I miss them both but the 280C was a swimming pool anytime it rained.

The carb on the 280C is fussy but can be dialed in fairly well. Mine ran very good unless I tightened the air cleaner wing nut to much. The base plate would warp and the vacuum leak would mess up the idle.

I did upgrade the ignition to a crane cams xr700 or xr3000, don't remember which car had which but I think it made a enough of a difference in starting and running that made it worth the $100 or so.

You will sit lower in the car due to the seats and there is nothing cooler than rolling down the street with all of the windows down on a sunny day.

Michael

wolf_walker · #6 04-02-2009, 09:16 PM

Mine has been touch and go as a daily, and it wasn't a $500 car at all. I like the old thing.
Best driving car on the highway in the rain I've ever had. Skinny tires and good wipers are wonderful.

mbbuff · #7 04-04-2009, 01:13 PM

Also check for body cancer behind the rear wheel wells, low, where you can't see it while standing up. I found that leakage into the cab or trunk was coming from bad front and rear window seals. I have new seals, but can't find anyone local to me that is willing to tackle the job. It's not a big deal to me, as I don't take it out in the rain anymore. I didn't know they made a "C" in 1976. I thought they were all "CE's"...fuel injected. If it does have the Solex 4 bbl. carb. though, they are easy and inexpensive to rebuild. I did mine last summer, and also replaced the float, which was most of the problem. The fuel shutoff solenoids tend to leak as they get older, causing hard starting after sitting a few days. If not driven almost daily, they empty the float bowl over time. They are spendy to replace. As for mileage, I get 14-18 in town (depending on amount of stop and go), and 23-26 on the highway, driving 60-65 mph.

Take the oil filler cap off and check for fresh oil wetness on the top end. The oil feed holes to the top end are small and can get restricted/plugged if regular oil changes are not done. You'll hear valve train noise if damage is already done, even if the valves are properly adjusted. The cam housing (no bushings/bearings) tend to wear egg shaped.

How many miles on it? Does the trans. shift properly? Does it go into reverse/drive without hesitation? I just changed the reverse piston and seal in mine. Symptom was slow to go into reverse when cold only. The seal was split and hardened.

In any case, the price is right, so IMO if it has potential, go for it. You could probably part it out for more than $500 if it didn't work out.