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#1
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Rotten Mechanics
My local mechanic is working on the car for the next week (71 W108 280SE)
What sort of figure would you expect for tyres, brakes, alternator rebuild, oil plugs, general service - a few nuts nd bolts, and king pins and bushes on the rear end. Frankly, I think im being ripped off at just under 3 grand. Non of the parts are original. And im considering whether the car is worth it when i only paid half that for it, and the paintwork needs redoing yet (next year!) Any info appreciated. Cheers, Luke
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1971 280SE - The S Class 1974 280CE - Sterling 1988 300E - Stanley |
#2
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Those who can - do.
Those who can't - pay. I am not familiar with how prices down under compare here to the states, but if you feel like you are getting ripped then you probably are. |
#3
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I do all the work on my 108 myself, and would never pay $3000 for anything on my 108 aside from a professional paint job (and I might be willing to pay more for that if I had to). I did my kingpins and upper control arms for under $200 in parts... I wound up replacing one kingpin because I couldn't get the upper control arm bolt out of the driver's side so I have a spare brand new kingpin waiting for if/when I may need it down the road. If you don't count the time I wasted trying to save the old kingpin it was only about 2 hours of work per side, maybe less. I wasted over 10 hours trying to save what was at the time a $90 kingpin
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#4
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The front end parts are not really that expensive but if someone else does the work it will be very expensive. I am totally rebuilding my front end from spindle to spindle and doing all the work except for the machine work-replacing and reaming the kingpin bushings which cost about $100. All the parts are probably less than $500. Actually the price you quoted does not seem out of line considering the work.
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Tony H W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe Manual transmission Past cars: Porsche 914 2.0 '64 Jaguar XKE Roadster '57 Oval Window VW '71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new '73 Toyota Celica GT |
#5
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Time vs. Money
I had the same dilemma when I first got my w108, decided to take the car to a mechanic because I didn't know what I was doing. Three weeks and $1000 later, and all the guy did was put in a new fuel pump and filter, then tell me that my transmission was kaput and to get it out of his shop! Now that I have pretty much rebuilt or replaced most of the engine myself, I realize that replacing that fuel pump would of cost me about $250 in parts and about 1 hour of work! Learning how to fix everything yourself is totally doable, the major cost is investing in good tools, but it will take time. I've been working on mine for a steady 2 months to get it up and running as a daily driver, and most of that time has been reading the manuals and this forum for information and procedures. So, you either pay 4 times the cost of the car at a mechanic, or you give yourself 2 months and learn how to fix it yourself, otherwise you'll be paying that mechanic the entire time you own this car.
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#6
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Trouble is, this is all to get a roadworthy certificate - to get the car registered. Id done alot of work myself - and It will never see a mechanics shop again under my registration - but the guy is very picky, and wont let it out untill all of the work is done. Now hes saying it will be less than 2500 - then again two days again he said it would be less hen 1500. But its going to be a daily driver, so I guess its worth it.
And considering your talking US dollars, just half any amount here - so all up its going to be 1000 to 1500 US. Who said they got their kingpins nd parts for 200? I was quoted 500 (250US) but theyre probably harder to get in australia. I sure hope its worth it in the end... Thanks for all the input
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1971 280SE - The S Class 1974 280CE - Sterling 1988 300E - Stanley |
#7
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Quote:
As for worth it: It will drive straight as an arrow and steer sharply and precisely, and if you keep it lubed it will be well worth it for ages.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#8
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Thanks
Thats good news Tomguy - thanks everyone for your replies.
Ill be happy when the roadworthy and the car is finally registered so I can carry out maintenance myself - appart from replacing tyres I guess. Best of all, Ill be able to drive it on the roads Thanks again guys.
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1971 280SE - The S Class 1974 280CE - Sterling 1988 300E - Stanley |
#9
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Hi Californian SE;
Just a few thoughts...... I thoroughly enjoy getting further and further into my vehicle. I think that as you gain experience, tools, and a few extra $ to put into your car you will appreciate the fact that an assembly worker used his/her hands to do the same thing all those years ago. As the weeds get thicker it's easier to see the design and they will give you an extension of yourself most people only have a glimpse of. Best of luck with your project . |
#10
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All of which just goes to prove that the only way to own and drive one of these cars without expending far more money than their market value is to do as much of the work yourself as you possibly can.
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Berfinroy in CT Present vehicles: 1973 300 SEL 4.5 1959 Rolls Royce Silver Cloud I 1959 Ford Thunderbird convertible/430 Past vehicles; 1958 Bentley S 1 1976 ex-Max Hoffman 6.9 1970 300SEL 2.8 1958 Jaguar MK IX 1961 Jaguar MK IX 1963 Jaguar E-type factory special roadster 1948 Plymouth woody 1955 Morgan plus 4 1966 Shelby GT350H Mustang |
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